In Part One of this series, we identified the main issues that needed to be addressed whilst tackling this ESP LTD M-10 repair/restoration/upgrade job. Next, in Part Two, I proceeded to handle the various tasks involved in getting this guitar back into shape again; so to speak.
Since then, I've restrung the guitar with Ernie Ball Super Slinkys and given it a proper set up. Loosened the truss rod to give the fretboard a smidgen of relief; as it was as straight as an arrow even under string tension. The action was also unplayably high even with the bridge posts screwed all the way down.
Since then, I've restrung the guitar with Ernie Ball Super Slinkys and given it a proper set up. Loosened the truss rod to give the fretboard a smidgen of relief; as it was as straight as an arrow even under string tension. The action was also unplayably high even with the bridge posts screwed all the way down.
This problem was solved by inserting a shim in the neck pocket below the neck heel. For more information about modifying neck angle/pitch via shims, check out this enlightening Premier Guitar article by John LeVan.
You know, I've never really gotten into the specs of this ESP LTD M-10. So, here we go. Can't determine what material was used to construct the body; but it seems to be three pieces of solid wood. The bolt-on neck is definitely maple, and the fretboard; rosewood.
You know, I've never really gotten into the specs of this ESP LTD M-10. So, here we go. Can't determine what material was used to construct the body; but it seems to be three pieces of solid wood. The bolt-on neck is definitely maple, and the fretboard; rosewood.
The fretboard features a 22.5" scale, 12" radius (I measured), 22 nicely-dressed jumbo frets, dot inlays; and an attractive pearloid 12th fret inlay etched with the characters "M-10." The contoured and slanted neck/body bolt-on joint is less obtrusive than most; and makes playing the highest frets not at all uncomfortable.
Hardware is some kind of black-plated metal. I think ESP should have stuck to simple nickel or chrome-plated hardware. It's quite obvious that the black plating wears off and tarnishes easily; making cleanup extremely time-consuming. Meanwhile, stringing is through-body, and the bridge; a generic tune-o-matic clone. That would be just about all I've noted about the M-10.
In this third and final installment, I'll share with you a couple pics of this rejuvenated M-10. I've also uploaded a YouTube video of owner Zinuun Tojid trying out his axe. Do give it a view. Thanks for dropping by, and hope to see you again real soon :)
Hardware is some kind of black-plated metal. I think ESP should have stuck to simple nickel or chrome-plated hardware. It's quite obvious that the black plating wears off and tarnishes easily; making cleanup extremely time-consuming. Meanwhile, stringing is through-body, and the bridge; a generic tune-o-matic clone. That would be just about all I've noted about the M-10.
In this third and final installment, I'll share with you a couple pics of this rejuvenated M-10. I've also uploaded a YouTube video of owner Zinuun Tojid trying out his axe. Do give it a view. Thanks for dropping by, and hope to see you again real soon :)
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