Showing posts with label guitarsetup. Show all posts
Showing posts with label guitarsetup. Show all posts

Sunday, April 18, 2021

Ibanez RG370AHMZ | Part Two


In the previous post on this gorgeous Ibanez RG370AHMZ, I highlighted some of its more pertinent specifications. Now, in this post, we'll take a closer look at the Edge Zero II tremolo bridge, ZPS3Fe "counter-tension tuning stabilizer system;" and also the control cavity components.

The Edge Zero II tremolo bridge consists of a cast alloy base plate, individual saddles; and fine tuners. As a "double-locking tremolo" system, the bridge works in conjunction with a locking nut. But you knew that already, right?

Meanwhile, the ZPS3Fe "counter-tension tuning stabilizer system" consists of two "sub springs," string stopper, stop rod and spring adjustment knob. Ibanez believes that the ZPS3Fe helps to "ensure tuning stability" by returning the tremolo more "quickly and accurately" to the neutral position when the tremolo arm is released. 

I'm no expert on tremolos and such, but I do say that the ZPS3Fe works as it should and saves a lot of time and labor during setup. For one, the spring adjustment knob and stop rod eliminate the need for fiddling around with screwdrivers or tapered wooden blocks. 

The control cavity appears to be shielded with conductive shielding paint, and the inside of the cover with aluminum foil. Components include an Ibanez 3SWLSP5 five-way switch and two dime-sized Alpha (Korea) pots.

Now, what does the Ibanez RG370AHMZ sound like? To answer that question, do check out any of these great YouTube videos:

















 

Monday, March 29, 2021

Ibanez RG370AHMZ | Part One


According to Darrell Braun Guitar, "... this RG is straight up blue-tiful!" I couldn't agree more, Darrell. I was grinning from ear to ear when one of these beauties came in for a string change and setup recently. Now, without further ado, let's peruse some specs, based on information sourced from Ibanez and the Ibanez Wiki; as well as my own observations.

Body: Solid ash, bound
Finish: Top - Blue Moon Burst (BMT), Back and Sides - Natural
Neck: Maple, Wizard III profile, bolt-on, All Access Neck Joint (AANJ)
Fretboard: Maple, 16" radius, 25.5" scale, 24 jumbo frets, black dot inlays
Bridge: Edge Zero II tremolo bridge with ZPS3Fe "counter-tension tuning stabilizer system"
Pickup Configuration: HSH
Bridge Pickup: Ibanez Quantum Bridge (humbucker/passive/ceramic)
Middle Pickup: Ibanez Quantum Middle (single-coil/passive/alnico)
Neck Pickup: Ibanez Quantum Neck (humbucker/passive/ceramic)
Controls: Master Volume/Master Tone/5-Way Pickup Selector
Hardware: Cosmo Black

Well folks, that's about it for this introductory post. In Part Two, we'll take a closer look at the Edge Zero II tremolo bridge, ZPS3Fe "counter-tension tuning stabilizer system;" and also the electronics. Meanwhile, do enjoy the pics :)















Thursday, October 15, 2020

1981 Ibanez Blazer BL-400: Part Four

Related Posts    
Part One | Part Two | Part Three | Part Four

This is the fourth and final instalment on a lovely Ibanez BL-400. Now that the electronics and hardware had been dealt with, it was time to fit a new bone nut. The old nut finally came off after putting up a good fight, no thanks to the copious amount of glue employed.

It was then that I realized something peculiar, in that the top of the bullet truss rod nut was protruding from the bottom of the nut slot. As the repairman before me had cleverly filed a slightly rounded recess into the bottom of the nut to accommodate the protrusion; I did the same. Following this was the normal run-of-the-mill procedure: tracing of the first fret height/profile, marking and filing of the nut slots, final shaping; and sanding/polishing.

As the new nut was now ready; the "stunt" strings were taken off and the neck, fretboard and frets given a good clean/polish. While cleaning the maple fretboard of gunk and grime, I actually discovered what looked like dried blood. How did it get there? When I casually mentioned this to the owner, he just laughed. Aha, so I guess it was blood after all!

The BL-400 was then strung with Ernie Ball RPS Super Slinkys (009-042) and set up in the usual manner. It's been a great adventure overhauling this gorgeous instrument, and I thank you for being with me all the way. Until we meet again, stay home, stay healthy; and God bless.



 















 

Thursday, September 24, 2020

RC Stromm LG-1 Solidbody

Kids today are so lucky! We never had a music room or bona fide music lessons in school back in the '60s and '70s. But I guess times have changed. This RC Stromm solidbody lives in the music room of a local primary school and them lucky kids get to play it. It was brought in recently by the school's music teacher, who asked for a string change, setup, fretboard reconditioning and nut work. Seems that the nut slots had been cut a little too narrow and deep at the factory, and thus were "pinching" the strings; if you know what I mean.

A closer examination revealed other issues which included a dry rosewood fretboard, excessively-high action; and insufficient neck pitch. After the old strings were removed, the frets were cleaned and polished; and the fretboard reconditioned with lemon oil. One thing I really like about this fretboard is the comfortable 14" radius and above-average fretwork on the medium-jumbo frets. No sharp fret ends here!

Following this, the neck itself was removed and a neck pocket shim added to increase neck pitch. After reattaching the neck, the guitar was strung with Ernie Ball Regular Slinkys (010-046); and then the really tricky nut work began. The nut slots were widened slightly and the top of the nut itself reprofiled so that about half of the wound strings were exposed. The truss rod was also gradually tightened over a day, and I'm glad that I finally managed to get the neck relatively straight; with a just a smidgen of relief.

Setting the saddles to match the fretboard radius and intonating them was relatively painless, thanks to the smooth-turning saddle height and intonation screws. Of course, the saddles had been prepped beforehand with my tried-and-trusted lube; Singer Machine Oil

I guess that's all for this post. Thank you for taking the time off your busy schedules to pay my humble blog a visit. Do drop by again real soon, by which time I should have more tales of my adventures in the world of guitar repair to share; and more pics for you to enjoy. Stay healthy, stay safe; and God bless you :)












Tuesday, August 11, 2020

Washburn Ox Series Strat - Partial Refret

Sometimes it's better not to mess with your guitar. As the story goes, someone tried to lower the action on this Washburn Ox Series Strat by deepening the nut slots. And went a bit too low. So low that the open strings started to buzz badly. Well, let's go and file the first fret. Ah, much better --- but now the second fret is buzzing, let's file that too. Oooh, now them first two frets have stopped buzzing; but the third is acting up. What the heck, I'm gonna file that pesky third fret now. Uh-oh, now the fourth fret is buzzing like crazy. And I've scratched that lovely fretboard too! What am I to do?

I'm glad someone stopped the guy at the third fret. Lord knows what would have happened had he continued on his well-intentioned; but doomed odyssey. Those three fret tops were ragged, and the guitar was unplayable; for sure. The most practical remedy would be to replace the first three frets, level; and re-crown them. This is what those in the business call a "partial refret." And yes, something had to be done about those deep fretboard scratches.

As luck would have it, I had on hand matching fretwire, as far as width is concerned; that is. So I pulled the first three frets, prepped that section of the fretboard; and installed new ones. Truing and prepping the fretboard took care of those deep scratches -- talk about killing two birds with one stone! The fret tangs were cut with a StewMac Fret Tang Nipper, and tidied up with a file. I know, some people are able to get an ultra-clean cut with just nippers; but I'm not one of them.

Meanwhile, the trashed nut was removed. Maybe I could re-cut the slots and raise the nut a bit; that would save the owner some money. So tap tap I go with my wooden block, and the nut comes off all right; leaving chunks stuck fast to the nut slot bottom. Seems like someone had used super glue to glue in the original nut. Well, so much for saving a few bucks. Now I'd have to install a new nut anyway.

That issue being settled, I proceeded to cut the frets to length and reshape the ends with my trusty tiny triangular and square-shaped Japanese files. Seems like I can't find them anywhere in Kuantan nowadays. I have two sets; the last one being found (and bought immediately) at a hardware store in Air Puteh a few years ago. That store doesn't have them in stock any more. If anyone knows where I can get my hands on another set, do give me a holler; thank you very much.

During the course of this partial refret job, the fretboard needed to be straightened a couple times by adjusting the truss rod. The truss rod on the Washburn Ox Series Strat is rather interesting because it features a "spoke wheel" truss rod nut. Nothing could be easier, I tell you. Just insert a suitable tool into one of the exposed holes (I used an Allen key) and turn left (loosen) or right (tighten) as needed.

Leveling was done with sanding beams and successively finer grades of abrasive paper. Next came fret re-crowning, scratch removal and polishing --- you know the drill. And then, it was time to fit a new nut. Turns out the Washburn nut was basically the type you'd put on a typical acoustic or electric LP-style; only taller and slightly narrower. After removing remnants of the old nut and leveling the bottom of the nut slot, an LP-style nut was installed.

By carefully aligning the new nut using "stunt" low and high E strings, I was able to ascertain the correct lateral position. A little bit was jutting out on either side of the nut slot, as expected. This was taken care of using files, sandpaper; and 3M Flexible Polishing Papers. As for nut height, well; it was way too low. Fixed the lack of height by gluing four slivers of teakwood veneer to the bottom of the nut slot. Wood glue was used, by the way. Once the nut was glued on and the glue had cured, everything was fine and dandy. Nut slot radius was not a problem, as it was already 12"; which matched the fretboard radius perfectly.

Now that everything was as it should be, all the frets were polished as there was a noticeable "shine factor" difference between the original frets and replacements; and I didn't want them to stick out like a sore thumb. Subsequently, the whole fretboard was treated to a generous dose of lemon oil. Yes, the fretboard was dry; so dry that three applications of oil were soaked up in no time at all.

Finally, the guitar was strung with Ernie Ball Super Slinkys (009-042), tuned and set up. The owner just picked up his Washburn Ox Series Strat earlier tonight, and exclaimed that it had lower action and was more playable than even his go-to Squier Strat. I'll take that as a compliment. Thanks for dropping by; and I'll see you again real soon :)

Note: Fender®, Stratocaster®, Strat®, Telecaster®, Tele®, P Bass®, Precision Bass®, and the distinctive headstock designs of these guitars are registered trademarks of Fender Musical Instruments Corporation.