Sunday, April 18, 2021
Ibanez RG370AHMZ | Part Two
Monday, March 29, 2021
Ibanez RG370AHMZ | Part One
Thursday, October 15, 2020
1981 Ibanez Blazer BL-400: Part Four
This is the fourth and final instalment on a lovely Ibanez BL-400. Now that the electronics and hardware had been dealt with, it was time to fit a new bone nut. The old nut finally came off after putting up a good fight, no thanks to the copious amount of glue employed.
It was then that I realized something peculiar, in that the top of the bullet truss rod nut was protruding from the bottom of the nut slot. As the repairman before me had cleverly filed a slightly rounded recess into the bottom of the nut to accommodate the protrusion; I did the same. Following this was the normal run-of-the-mill procedure: tracing of the first fret height/profile, marking and filing of the nut slots, final shaping; and sanding/polishing.
As the new nut was now ready; the "stunt" strings were taken off and the neck, fretboard and frets given a good clean/polish. While cleaning the maple fretboard of gunk and grime, I actually discovered what looked like dried blood. How did it get there? When I casually mentioned this to the owner, he just laughed. Aha, so I guess it was blood after all!
The BL-400 was then strung with Ernie Ball RPS Super Slinkys (009-042) and set up in the usual manner. It's been a great adventure overhauling this gorgeous instrument, and I thank you for being with me all the way. Until we meet again, stay home, stay healthy; and God bless.
Thursday, September 24, 2020
RC Stromm LG-1 Solidbody
Kids today are so lucky! We never had a music room or bona fide music lessons in school back in the '60s and '70s. But I guess times have changed. This RC Stromm solidbody lives in the music room of a local primary school and them lucky kids get to play it. It was brought in recently by the school's music teacher, who asked for a string change, setup, fretboard reconditioning and nut work. Seems that the nut slots had been cut a little too narrow and deep at the factory, and thus were "pinching" the strings; if you know what I mean.
A closer examination revealed other issues which included a dry rosewood fretboard, excessively-high action; and insufficient neck pitch. After the old strings were removed, the frets were cleaned and polished; and the fretboard reconditioned with lemon oil. One thing I really like about this fretboard is the comfortable 14" radius and above-average fretwork on the medium-jumbo frets. No sharp fret ends here!
Following this, the neck itself was removed and a neck pocket shim added to increase neck pitch. After reattaching the neck, the guitar was strung with Ernie Ball Regular Slinkys (010-046); and then the really tricky nut work began. The nut slots were widened slightly and the top of the nut itself reprofiled so that about half of the wound strings were exposed. The truss rod was also gradually tightened over a day, and I'm glad that I finally managed to get the neck relatively straight; with a just a smidgen of relief.
Setting the saddles to match the fretboard radius and intonating them was relatively painless, thanks to the smooth-turning saddle height and intonation screws. Of course, the saddles had been prepped beforehand with my tried-and-trusted lube; Singer Machine Oil.
I guess that's all for this post. Thank you for taking the time off your busy schedules to pay my humble blog a visit. Do drop by again real soon, by which time I should have more tales of my adventures in the world of guitar repair to share; and more pics for you to enjoy. Stay healthy, stay safe; and God bless you :)
Tuesday, August 11, 2020
Washburn Ox Series Strat - Partial Refret
I'm glad someone stopped the guy at the third fret. Lord knows what would have happened had he continued on his well-intentioned; but doomed odyssey. Those three fret tops were ragged, and the guitar was unplayable; for sure. The most practical remedy would be to replace the first three frets, level; and re-crown them. This is what those in the business call a "partial refret." And yes, something had to be done about those deep fretboard scratches.
As luck would have it, I had on hand matching fretwire, as far as width is concerned; that is. So I pulled the first three frets, prepped that section of the fretboard; and installed new ones. Truing and prepping the fretboard took care of those deep scratches -- talk about killing two birds with one stone! The fret tangs were cut with a StewMac Fret Tang Nipper, and tidied up with a file. I know, some people are able to get an ultra-clean cut with just nippers; but I'm not one of them.
Meanwhile, the trashed nut was removed. Maybe I could re-cut the slots and raise the nut a bit; that would save the owner some money. So tap tap I go with my wooden block, and the nut comes off all right; leaving chunks stuck fast to the nut slot bottom. Seems like someone had used super glue to glue in the original nut. Well, so much for saving a few bucks. Now I'd have to install a new nut anyway.
That issue being settled, I proceeded to cut the frets to length and reshape the ends with my trusty tiny triangular and square-shaped Japanese files. Seems like I can't find them anywhere in Kuantan nowadays. I have two sets; the last one being found (and bought immediately) at a hardware store in Air Puteh a few years ago. That store doesn't have them in stock any more. If anyone knows where I can get my hands on another set, do give me a holler; thank you very much.
During the course of this partial refret job, the fretboard needed to be straightened a couple times by adjusting the truss rod. The truss rod on the Washburn Ox Series Strat is rather interesting because it features a "spoke wheel" truss rod nut. Nothing could be easier, I tell you. Just insert a suitable tool into one of the exposed holes (I used an Allen key) and turn left (loosen) or right (tighten) as needed.
Leveling was done with sanding beams and successively finer grades of abrasive paper. Next came fret re-crowning, scratch removal and polishing --- you know the drill. And then, it was time to fit a new nut. Turns out the Washburn nut was basically the type you'd put on a typical acoustic or electric LP-style; only taller and slightly narrower. After removing remnants of the old nut and leveling the bottom of the nut slot, an LP-style nut was installed.
By carefully aligning the new nut using "stunt" low and high E strings, I was able to ascertain the correct lateral position. A little bit was jutting out on either side of the nut slot, as expected. This was taken care of using files, sandpaper; and 3M Flexible Polishing Papers. As for nut height, well; it was way too low. Fixed the lack of height by gluing four slivers of teakwood veneer to the bottom of the nut slot. Wood glue was used, by the way. Once the nut was glued on and the glue had cured, everything was fine and dandy. Nut slot radius was not a problem, as it was already 12"; which matched the fretboard radius perfectly.
Now that everything was as it should be, all the frets were polished as there was a noticeable "shine factor" difference between the original frets and replacements; and I didn't want them to stick out like a sore thumb. Subsequently, the whole fretboard was treated to a generous dose of lemon oil. Yes, the fretboard was dry; so dry that three applications of oil were soaked up in no time at all.
Finally, the guitar was strung with Ernie Ball Super Slinkys (009-042), tuned and set up. The owner just picked up his Washburn Ox Series Strat earlier tonight, and exclaimed that it had lower action and was more playable than even his go-to Squier Strat. I'll take that as a compliment. Thanks for dropping by; and I'll see you again real soon :)
Note: Fender®, Stratocaster®, Strat®, Telecaster®, Tele®, P Bass®, Precision Bass®, and the distinctive headstock designs of these guitars are registered trademarks of Fender Musical Instruments Corporation.
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