Sunday, May 30, 2021

Custom HSH S-Style Revisited

I remember working on this custom HSH S-style some time in 2019; carrying out a full refret and installing a bone nut. However, I misplaced most of the images; and only managed to blog about it almost a year later. The guitar belongs to Lan, a Segamat-based dyed-in-the-wool hard rock guitarist who gigs with, of all things; a dangdut band.

Now, this instrument is a custom build by renowned west coast luthier Yeop Sagor. It features two genuine Ibanez humbuckers (V7 neck/V8 bridge) and a single-coil (middle). Meanwhile, hardware highlights include bona fide Fender '70s F Style tuners, tortoiseshell pickguard, two-point synchronized tremolo with "Fender"-stamped bent steel saddles; and four-bolt neck plate.

It's also a unique instrument in many ways. For instance, the maple neck is chunky and feels like a baseball bat; just the way I like it. You're not likely to come across a neck with this profile on a run-of-the-mill production guitar; methinks. The scale length is 25.5 inches; and fretboard radius 9.5. As the fretboard is a separate slab of maple, there is no need for a "skunk stripe" on the back of the neck. 

The body wood is of an unidentified tropical hardwood species that exhibits a really deep reddish-brown hue and striking grain pattern. Why, there's even a whole lotta striping going on; as can be seen in the pictures accompanying this post. 

Then there's the "bi-flex" truss rod, which features a hex adjustment nut. So, there's no channel to insert a hex key. Instead, I found that the 5/16" truss rod wrench I use on PRS guitars fit perfectly; so that's what was utilized for setup. Besides this, I should also mention that the truss rod access channel is the widest and longest I've ever seen on any guitar or bass.

As Lan gigs regularly, and it had been quite a while since the guitar was serviced or set up; he called me to book a much-needed appointment. Once he was here, Lan confided that there were quite a few things not right with his pride and joy. For one, the electronics were acting up frequently; and he was not a hundred percent confident about gigging with it any more.

As it turned out, all three pickups were in working order. It was the wiring, pots and switches that needed to be replaced. Out went everything, and in their place I wired in new Alpha A500K full-sized pots, a poly 0.022uF tone cap; and generic five-way switch. As for the Switchcraft #11 output jack; it was good as new after a good scrubbing with a wire toothbrush and a little spritz of contact cleaner. Oh yes, I also applied shielding paint to the body cavities to reduce electromagnetic interference; as Lan loves to play at high gain and volume settings. 

The unstable two-point synchronized tremolo bridge was another cause for concern. Set to float, the high E pivot post was wobbling like crazy in its bushing; a sure indicator of worn-out threads. Swapping the high and low E pivot posts revealed that the pivot post was OK. It was the threads on the inside of the high E bushing that were worn out. With this in mind, I removed the worn-out bushing, replaced it; and the problem was solved. 

Frequent string breakage at the bridge was an additional malady, and SRV immediately came to mind. My gut reaction was to smooth out the inner rim of the bridge plate string channels with a jeweler's diamond grinding bit. We'll see how it goes. It the strings continue to break, then the last resort will be to slide wire insulation over the first inch or so of each string; like Rene Martinez used to do on SRV's Strats.

Let's see, then. What have I not mentioned yet? Oh yes. The frets I installed in 2019 needed to be leveled and recrowned. Lan plays with a heavy hand, even with 9s. I don't know how he pulls that off with strings that light; but he does. The fret dressing involved the usual SOP. Straighten the neck, tape the fretboard off, mark the tops of the frets, level them, add fall away from the 14th fret onwards, mark the fret tops again, recrown them; abrade and polish. You know the drill.

As mentioned earlier, Lan plays with a heavy hand and has his trem set to float so he can do both dive bombs and pull-ups with ease. The '70s F Style tuners he'd had installed right from the start had done a good job, but he wanted more tuning stability. And so it came to pass that these were replaced with a set of Musiclily Pro locking tuners. Installation was a breeze, they felt solid and turned smoothly; so there's no regrets here. 

Nope, that was not all. Lan suddenly felt that a black pickguard would match his guitar's aesthetics better than tortoiseshell. No problem, as I was able to hunt one down in a couple days. I then unscrewed the old pickguard, removed the electronics, desoldered the output jack leads and trem claw ground, reinstalled the electronics in the new black pickguard; and resoldered what needed to be. As expected, the mounting screw holes for the new pickguard did not exactly match the holes in the body. Yes, we merrily went a plugging and redrilling; and all was right once again. 

What followed was a regular setup with a set of Ernie Ball Super Slinkys; and special attention paid to get the two-point synchronized tremolo floating as per Fender specs. Finally, this custom HSS solidbody was put to bed in its plush hardshell case; awaiting its owner's arrival. What with the slew of lockdowns and travel restrictions, it was quite a while before Lan could come pick up the apple of his eye. But come he did one day, and I must say I was sad to see the guitar leave. Boy, that was one heck of a neck!



















Saturday, May 29, 2021

Ibanez GIO Gets a Floyd | Part Three

Quick Links:    Part One | Part Two | Part Three

Here we are at the third and final post on this Ibanez GIO HSH solidbody. To recap, Part One covered the installation of the locking nut; while Part Two highlighted the very tedious Floyd Rose tremolo installation and setup. Now, in this post, I'll show you what rewiring entailed; and share a couple pics of the GIO in combat-ready mode.

Although I've waited till now to talk about rewiring; this part of the job was actually taken care of just before installing the Floyd Rose bridge. While looking at the pictures in Part Two, you might have noticed that new pickups had already been wired in.

OK, on to the rewiring, then. The original scheme consisted of two humbuckers and a single coil (Ibanez, I presume) wired to two mini pots, a five-way switch, and rather crappy output jack; all of which had long returned to the great spirit in the sky. Whoops, not exactly all of them. As the single-coil was still functioning; it was retained.

Long story short, out they went, to be replaced by two nondescript humbuckers, Alpha A500K full-sized pots, a generic 5-way switch, 0.022uF cap; and NYS229 output jack socket. The last task was to fashion a new truss rod cover out of black pickguard material, drill the necessary screw holes; and close up the truss rod nut recess. 

And that, folks, is how this little old Ibanez GIO from China got itself a spanking-new Floyd Rose-licensed tremolo bridge, locking nut, spa treatment; as well as an electronics upgrade.






















 

Ibanez GIO Gets a Floyd | Part Two

Quick Links:    Part One | Part Two | Part Three

Howdy folks. Nice seeing you again :) In Part One, we saw how the locking nut was installed on the neck of this Ibanez GIO. Now let's see how I got the Floyd Rose into the body. Yes, like I'm fond of saying, you have to measure everything twice before even bringing out your chisels and what-have-you.

Now, the original trem was of the two-point variety; so the bushings for the bridge mounting studs were already in place. The fit was so good that I would not have to relocate them. Problem was, the new bridge mounting studs could not fit into the original bushings; and I could not reuse the original studs because they were missing. Yes, I'd have to remove the old bushings and replace them with the ones provided.

Using a pair of compatible studs that I found in my spare parts box, I was able to position the Floyd Rose exactly where I wanted it to be. Following this, all cut lines were carefully drawn; and the bushings could be removed.

The process I employ to remove bushings, be it for a Floyd Rose or tune-o-matic stop bar; involves four basic steps. The first is to unscrew the bridge mounting studs with a suitable hex wrench, and then insert a small solid brass rod into the bushing. This rod should be short enough to allow the stud to be screwed back on; but long enough to push back against the stud.

The third step is to gently screw in the stud; not force it in. As soon as the bottom of the stud starts to push down on the brass rod, the bushing will slowly start to rise out of the wood. Eventually, it will rise out far enough to be easily pulled out. Sometimes, if the Moon is in the seventh house and Jupiter aligned with Mars; the bushing will pop out just like that!

Once the bushings were out, it was time to do some preliminary cutting and gouging with chisels of various sizes. I keep my chisels sharp, so this part didn't take all that long. This was followed by clean-up with my trusty Pro's Kit rotary tool and a Dremel mini-router bit; plus lots of sanding.

The routed area was then sprayed with flat black, followed by a top coats of flat clear. Once everything had dried and cured, a carefully-cut piece of black EVA foam was glued to the bottom of the route to protect the wood from the fine tuners during up-trem use.

Next, the Floyd Rose was installed with a set of cheap "dummy" strings, probably Orphees. Did you think I would trash a set of Ernie Balls? Nah, no way, man! So, the strings were on and tuned to pitch; and then I discovered that while the fretboard radius was 14 inches, the saddles were sitting at a much-flatter radius of 16 inches.

To correct this imbalance, several brass saddle shims of various thicknesses were utilized to raise the B, G, D and A string saddles until a radius of 14 inches was achieved. The final results filled me with joy, but not so much the journey there. Stringing, unstringing, clamping, unclamping, tuning, detuning, fiddling with hex keys, removing the saddles, reinstalling the saddles; repeat ad infinitum .... you get the idea.

Thus ends this post. In Part Three, we'll look at rewiring; and enjoy a little photoshoot of sorts. Thanks for visiting, and I'll see you in the next post :)

























Ibanez GIO Gets a Floyd | Part One

Related Posts   
Part One | Part Two | Part Three

One day I received a call from a long-haul trucker named Yee. Yee told me that he had an old China-made Ibanez GIO HSH solidbody that was in really bad shape. It didn't make a sound, and the stock tremolo unit was in pieces. So he'd junked the parts he thought were useless, and bought a new Floyd Rose-licensed tremolo plus a set of humbuckers. I said, "Okay. Bring it over and we'll have a look."

So Yee brought the GIO over to CA Guitar Repair, and after checking everything thoroughly; I mapped out a plan of action. One, the electronics were shot; so I'd be wiring in the two new humbuckers (the middle single coil would be retained), pots, tone cap, selector switch and output jack. I'd also install the new Floyd Rose tremolo after routing the top of the body.

Lots was done to this GIO, and there's even lots more to tell. In an effort to keep things organized and improve flow, I'll be telling this tale in three posts. This is Part One, in which I'll share how the locking nut was installed. Next, in Part Two, we'll get down to the nitty-gritty of how the Floyd Rose was installed and set up. Finally, in Part Three, I'll talk about the electronics upgrade a bit; before moving on to a mini photoshoot.

Well, then, let's take a look at the locking nut installation. The neck I received had no nut, so that saved me the trouble of removing it. As expected, the "shelf" vacated by the old nut was too narrow to accommodate a locking nut. So out came the chisels and files, and soon we had a shelf wide enough for the base of the locking nut.

After a test-fitting, I found that the locking nut was sitting way too low; so low that the strings would be resting on the first fret. To raise the nut, a wooden shim was fashioned out of a small piece of Chengal I had lying around. After several rounds of shaving the thickness down, the shim was at the desired height. 

With the addition of this Chengal shim, the nut was raised just enough to prevent buzzing at the first fret. In any case, if it turned out to be still too low while doing the final setup; I could always raise the height a tad by adding a brass shim or two. 

With that, the Chengal shim was glued onto the headstock with Titebond III and clamped in place for a couple days. Once the clamps were off, the shim was carved and trimmed to size; and two holes drilled for the locking nut mounting screws. All that was left to do now was to screw on the new locking nut; and this took no time at all.

Do take a look at the pictures below as they'll better illustrate what I've been talking about so far. In Part Two, the really tough part will be tackled, that is measuring and marking ad nauseum, routing the top of the body for the Floyd Rose, installing it; and setup. Hope to see you there :)























Friday, May 28, 2021

Fender Player Tidepool Telecaster® | Part Two


In the previous post, we took a brief look at the external characteristics of this Tidepool MIM Fender Player Telecaster®. Now, in this post, as promised; I'm sharing what I discovered after opening her up. And since you're already here, do check out these three YouTube videos:




Hope you enjoyed the videos. Now, let's look at some pics :)