Craftsman Bass - Active to Passive Conversion

Preamble

This active Craftsman bass was sent in on May 23 with a host of issues, as seen in the video below. What worried the owner the most, though, was the malfunctioning electronics. 

Existing Electronics

A closer examination of the innards revealed iffy soldering, widespread corrosion, and even spliced joints wrapped in plumber's tape. Someone had definitely tried to fix or modify the electronics, with detrimental results. The owner, understandably, did not take this news well. Long story short, he asked for the active electronics to be discarded, and passive components wired in.

Existing Electronics

Mings GE-2 Preamp

Output Jack (Retained)

Master Volume Pot

Bass Boost/Cut Pot

Pickup Blend Pot

Treble Boost/Cut Pot

Active to Passive Conversion

With the existing electronics desoldered, we were ready to wire in new components. Note that two components were retained; namely, the pickups and output jack. The new passive circuit comprised a three-way toggle switch for pickup selection (bass/both/treble), four Alpha A500K pots (2 volumes, 2 tones), and two 0.047uF tone caps.

Replacement Electronics

Passive Circuit Completed

Faulty Bridge Ground

Meanwhile, the monorail bridge was disassembled as continuity between the individual saddles and ground was spotty at best. The reason behind this was a torn and woefully narrow copper foil strip, as well as a rusty ground wire. Fixing this issue involved soldering on a new ground wire and sandwiching it between two layers of conductive copper foil.

Torn Copper Foil

New Ground Wire

Bridge Ground Fully Installed

Monorail Bridge Reinstalled

Pots and Toggle Switch

Volume and Tone Knobs Installed

Fretboard Matters

We'll start off with fretwork, then. After the neck was straightened, a total of eight high frets were detected. These frets were spot leveled, recrowned, cleaned, and polished. As for the fretboard (14" radius), it was full of gunk, crud and dried polish. Servicing involved scraping, cleanup with naphtha, and conditioning with lemon oil.

High Frets - Image 1

High Frets - Image 2

High Frets - Image 3

Spot Leveling in Progress

Abrading the Leveled/Recrowned Frets

Scraping the Fretboard

Polishing the Frets

Cleanup with Naphtha

Conditioning the Fretboard

Mini Photo Shoot

After the neck was reattached to the body, this Craftsman was set up with Olympia B45105 (45 - 105) strings. And now, before we say adieu, here are a few pics for your viewing pleasure. 

Photo Shoot - Image 1

Photo Shoot - Image 2

Photo Shoot - Image 3

Photo Shoot - Image 4

Photo Shoot - Image 5

Photo Shoot - Image 6

Yamaha FG-411 VS - Cracked Headstock - Part 2

◀ Part 1

Preamble

After much research, discussion and experimentation, it's been decided that the most sturdy repair would involve countersunk screws, wooden plugs, and a healthy amount of Titebond Wood Glue. Besides crack repair, we'll also be cleaning/conditioning the fretboard and polishing the frets.

Yamaha FG-411 VS - Cracked Headstock

 

Reinforcement Screws

The most suitable screws for this repair are pickup height screws, and four have been carefully chosen based on their threaded length and diameter. These screws will be countersunk, and the resulting voids plugged.

Four Reinforcement Screws

Pilot Holes Drilled

Test-Fitting the Screws

Titebond to the Rescue

Now, the reinforcement screws will only be installed after the application of glue. Yes, it's time for some Titebond Original Wood Glue. To help force the glue deep into the cracks, I'm making use of an aquarium suction cup.

Titebond Wood Glue Applied

Forcing Glue Into the Cracks

Reinforcement Screws Installed

Plugging Voids

Remember those four countersunk screws? Those voids need to be plugged, and here's where wooden dowels come in handy. Saw off a suitable length, taper one end, apply glue, gently tap in until firmly seated, and leave overnight. The next day, saw off the excess, tape off, and carefully trim until flush with the surrounding wood. It's basically the same process for the six existing tuner screw holes, except that the plugs are bamboo satay skewers.

Reinforcement Screw Holes Plugged

Trimming the Plugs

Plugs Trimmed Flush

Existing Tuner Screw Holes Plugged

The Home Stretch

As can be seen, the rosewood fretboard is full of gunk, while the frets are badly tarnished. Servicing the frets will involve initial cleaning with a rotary tool, followed by polishing with Scotch-Brite pads. As for the fretboard, it needs to be scraped, cleaned with naphtha, and conditioned with lemon oil. However, I'm putting off conditioning until just before restringing.

Fretboard Before Servicing

Cleaning the Frets

Scraping the Fretboard

Polishing the Frets

Cleanup With Naphtha

Now that the fretboard and frets have been taken care of, it's safe to lightly stain the wooden and bamboo plugs, seal the affected areas with a coat or two of Minwax Antique Oil Finish, install new tuners, and condition the fretboard with lemon oil. 

Sealing the Headstock Plugs

New Tuners Installed - 1

New Tuners Installed - 2

Conditioning the Fretboard

Fretboard After Conditioning