Custom Explorer Bass Makeover | Part Four

Part One | Part Two | Part Three | Part Four | Part Five

This is the fourth instalment of an ongoing series concerning a makeover on a custom Explorer-style five-string bass. After final-sanding the body with 220-grit sandpaper, Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler tinted with StewMac Red Mahogany ColorTone Liquid Stain (#5032) was applied liberally and left to dry overnight.

After sanding off the Red Mahogany grain filler, a second round of filler was applied, this time tinted with Dark Walnut (#5104). This was once again sanded off after overnight drying. As the grain still was not as dark as I wanted it to be, the wood was stained with Sumi black ink. After sanding off the ink, the grain was about as dark as it would ever be.

So now it finally time to stain the body with Cherry Red (#5038). Yes, I was rather pleased with the results. However, I noticed that the headstock face was a couple shades lighter than the body. This being the case, I had no choice but sand off the Tru-Oil applied earlier and restain the headstock face.

Having taken care of the grain-filling and staining, I could now apply conductive shielding paint to the pickup and control cavities. The next step should be applying a clear matte finish to the the body and headstock face. Thank you for dropping by. Do stay tuned for future updates on this Custom Explorer Bass Makeover. Stay home, stay safe; and I'll see you real soon :)

Custom Explorer Bass Makeover | Part Two

Part One | Part Two | Part Three | Part Four | Part Five

In Part 1 of this series, it was detailed how successive layers of gold flake, black paint, wood etchings, filler and goo were painstakingly scraped and sanded off until bare wood was finally revealed. In this episode, we pick up where we left off.

To begin with, grain filling was done on the back of the neck and headstock, as well as the headstock face; with  Elmer's Carpenter's Natural Wood Filler. Once excess filler had been sanded off, staining was effected using StewMac ColorTone Liquid Stains thinned with alcohol. Vintage Amber (#5030) was used for the back of the neck and headstock; and Cherry Red (#5038) for the headstock face.

Following this, these surfaces were refinished in Tru-Oil. Kindly note that I'll not be doing any refinishing work on the body until I've sealed existing screw holes and drilled new ones for the replacement bridge. Believe me, it's way safer to do any drilling before refinishing -- don't ask me how I know.

Next came taking accurate measurements before marking the all-important center and 34" lines prior to the installation of the new bridge. Once this was taken care of, the neck was reattached to the body; and the new bridge temporarily secured in the correct location. Then, two strings were utilized to check for proper side-to-side alignment. Guess what? The G and B strings were falling right off the edges of the fretboard! This meant that the new bridge could not be used as the G-B string spread was just too wide for the neck.

After some more measuring, it was determined that the G-B string spread of the original bridge was 6.8 cm; while that of the new bridge was a whopping 7.5 cm. Bottom line: the new bridge had to be put aside and the original reinstalled; no questions asked. I also suspect that the original bridge itself had not been installed correctly right from the start. The first issue was that it was not centered correctly. The second was that when aligned with the 34" mark, the G-string saddle was only about halfway forward.

When determining proper bass bridge location, I first make sure the bridge is "centered." Then, I adjust the G-string saddle to its forward-most position; and pull back about 1/16" to allow for some leeway. Next, I position the bridge so that the "break point" (the point where the string passes over the saddle) of the G-string saddle is aligned with the 34" mark. If this all sounds a little complicated, do check out these two excellent online resources:

Bridge Placement (scroll down to the post by "Rodent")

Electric Guitar and Bass Assembly Guide (scroll down to "Locating the bridge")

Going back to the drawing board, I've centered the original bridge, pulled it back so that the break point of the G-string saddle aligns with the 34" mark; and marked the new positions for the bridge mounting screws. The next step will be actually drilling these new holes, reinstalling the bridge; and checking once again if the strings are aligned correctly. Do check for further updates on this Custom Explorer Bass Makeover; and thanks for dropping by :)