This LTD FX-260SM came in with a cracked 5-piece Mahogany neck. The gaping crack extended all the way from the back of the neck to the headstock face. I was told was that the former owner had put it on the floor during a break from wood-shedding, and had himself stepped on the neck accidentally. Then, believing the guitar to be damaged beyond repair; he sold it to the current owner for the princely sum of 700 bucks.
The first part of this repair was cleaning the gaping "wound" of loose splinters, aligning any slivers of wood; and removing the truss rod adjustment nut. Super glue was then applied to the cracked areas, and clamps applied to hold the damaged areas in place.
The next day, the clamps were removed and wood shaved off the back of the entire headstock and neck, past the cracked area. Doing this would ensure maximum repair strength with the least wood removal. A pre-shaped Nyatoh backstrap overlay was then glued to the shaved area with Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue, clamped; and the glue allowed to dry/cure for four days.
Once the clamps had been removed, tuner holes were drilled through the overlay; and tuners test-fitted. After the tuners were removed, the edges of the overlay were trimmed to fit the outline of the headstock, shaved to the correct contours; and sanded to 220 grit.
The Nyatoh backstrap was then successively stained and sanded to the desired shade, and then grain-filled with StewMac ColorTone Clear Grain Filler. The grain-filling involved repeated application and sanding, resulting in a surface level and smooth enough for Tru-Oil application. The front of the headstock was also sealed and smoothened in a similar manner, save for the staining.
Tru-Oil was then applied in the usual manner, with light sanding after every three coats. The Tru-Oil was applied to the whole length of the back of the neck in order to adequately blend in the repaired area. Tru-Oil was also applied to the front of the headstock to seal the cracks in the pre-existing lacquer and make them less noticeable.
After the final coat of Tru-Oil, the FX-260SM was set aside for a month to allow ample time for the finish to cure. Once the finish had cured and hardened, the whole guitar was waxed and buffed by hand (as I don't own a buffing wheel). The tuners and nut were re-installed, the guitar strung, set up and tested; after which I gratefully called it a day.
The first part of this repair was cleaning the gaping "wound" of loose splinters, aligning any slivers of wood; and removing the truss rod adjustment nut. Super glue was then applied to the cracked areas, and clamps applied to hold the damaged areas in place.
The next day, the clamps were removed and wood shaved off the back of the entire headstock and neck, past the cracked area. Doing this would ensure maximum repair strength with the least wood removal. A pre-shaped Nyatoh backstrap overlay was then glued to the shaved area with Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue, clamped; and the glue allowed to dry/cure for four days.
Once the clamps had been removed, tuner holes were drilled through the overlay; and tuners test-fitted. After the tuners were removed, the edges of the overlay were trimmed to fit the outline of the headstock, shaved to the correct contours; and sanded to 220 grit.
The Nyatoh backstrap was then successively stained and sanded to the desired shade, and then grain-filled with StewMac ColorTone Clear Grain Filler. The grain-filling involved repeated application and sanding, resulting in a surface level and smooth enough for Tru-Oil application. The front of the headstock was also sealed and smoothened in a similar manner, save for the staining.
Tru-Oil was then applied in the usual manner, with light sanding after every three coats. The Tru-Oil was applied to the whole length of the back of the neck in order to adequately blend in the repaired area. Tru-Oil was also applied to the front of the headstock to seal the cracks in the pre-existing lacquer and make them less noticeable.
After the final coat of Tru-Oil, the FX-260SM was set aside for a month to allow ample time for the finish to cure. Once the finish had cured and hardened, the whole guitar was waxed and buffed by hand (as I don't own a buffing wheel). The tuners and nut were re-installed, the guitar strung, set up and tested; after which I gratefully called it a day.
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