Showing posts with label headstockrepair. Show all posts
Showing posts with label headstockrepair. Show all posts

Friday, February 05, 2021

Epiphone Special Model Restoration | Part Three

Related Posts   
Part One | Part Two | Part Three

Well folks, here we are at the third and final post regarding the restoration of a sunburst Gibson Epiphone Special Model Les Paul. Since we last met, the guitar's been reassembled, strung, set up; and plugged into a Ross MiniMouth G515 for a final playing check. Heck, I even recorded some audio and uploaded it to SoundCloud. Do give it a listen. Meanwhile, here are some pics of the restored Les Paul. Enjoy :)




















Epiphone Special Model Restoration | Part Two

Related Posts    
Part One | Part Two | Part Three

Howdy folks :) This is the second post of a three-parter regarding the restoration of a sunburst Gibson Epiphone Special Model Les Paul. In this post, we shall take a look at how the damaged headstock/neck scarf joint (Image 1) was repaired, and the back of the neck refinished.

For starters, the bolt-on neck was unscrewed from the body and the finish around the damaged area sanded off until only bare wood remained (Image 2). At this stage, the extent of the damage was clearly visible (Image 3). The scarf joint had split apart completely, and part of the fretboard had separated from the neck. It was indeed fortunate that the break was clean, and there were no splinters to be removed.  

Following this, the surfaces to be mated were lightly scuffed with abrasive paper. Scuffing is important as it promotes glue adhesion to the wood. A dry run was conducted to determine the best placement for clamps and wooden cauls, as there would be little time to position them once glue had been applied. Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue was then applied, and the joint clamped for a week (Image 4).

Once the clamps had been removed, dried glue squeeze-out was sanded off with 220 grit abrasive paper, and the entire repaired area sealed with several coats of super glue. After the last layer of super glue had cured, it was time to sand again, this time from 220 all the way up to 800 grit. By this time, the bare wood surface was sufficiently smooth for refinishing (Image 5). Additionally, the entire back of the neck was lightly sanded with 800 grit abrasive paper.  

After cleaning the whole neck with naphtha and removing any dust with a tack cloth, masking tape was applied to the front of the headstock and fretboard; right up to the fretboard edges. This was done to shield these surfaces from overspray. The back of the neck was then color-coated with Samurai 29/209A Flat Black (Image 6).

The next step was to remove the masking tape and eliminate the paint ridge that had developed all along the border between the bottom edge of the fretboard and side of the neck. This ridge cannot be avoided. You have to put tape on before spraying, and no matter how careful you are; a little of the paint finds its way underneath the tape. This is what creates the ridge. A single-edged razor blade was used to scrape off the paint ridge and smoothen things out (Image 7).

Subsequently, the back of the neck was clear-coated with Samurai 1/128 Clear. This time around, only the the fretboard face was taped off; as the sides of the fretboard needed to be sealed with the clear coat. As can be seen in Image 8, the final coat of clear wasn't all that smooth; no thanks to the unwelcome presence of "orange peel." "Orange peel" is caused by high and low spots in the finish, and must be dealt with appropriately. 

After a couple days of hang time, the clear coat had cured and was ready for some serious wetsanding. Wetsanding is a must if you want to minimize the amount of "orange peel" and even out the finish. And so, the clear coat was wetsanded with a succession of grits from 800 all the way up to 2000 (Image 9). Wetsanding in this way creates a relatively even and smooth surface that exhibits a dull sheen. The final step was polishing and waxing the clear coat, which definitely added some gloss and shine.

Having reached this stage of the restoration, all that needed to be done was to reassemble the Les Paul, do a routine setup with Ernie Ball Super Slinkys, put her through her paces; and have a quick photoshoot. Thanks for visiting, and do stay tuned for Part Three of this series :)





Image 1 - First look at the damaged scarf joint


Image 2 - Sanding off the finish down to bare wood


Image 3 - The extent of the damage is clearly visible


Image 4 - Clamping the joint after regluing


Image 5 - After removing the clamps, repaired area sealed and sanded


Image 6 - Color-coating with Samurai 29/209A Flat Black


Image 7 - Scraping and smoothing-out the paint ridge


Image 8 - Clear-coating with Samurai 1/128 Clear, orange peel


Image 9 - Before and after wetsanding, after polishing and waxing


Epiphone Special Model Restoration | Part One

Related Posts    
Part One | Part Two | Part Three

Ladies and gentlemen, welcome to the first of three posts regarding the restoration of a sunburst Gibson Epiphone Special Model Les Paul. The truss rod cover says "Gibson," while the headstock face sports a silk-screened "Epiphone" logo and the words "Special Model." Etched into the chrome neck plate are the Epiphone logo and serial number (07020798). 

As received, this solidbody was covered in dust and grime; while the hardware was tarnished and/or corroded. The barely-functioning three-way toggle switch, pots and output jack had certainly seen better days; and were in dire need of replacement. 

Perhaps the most critical issue concerned the bolt-on neck. Due to a bad fall, the headstock/neck scarf joint had cracked open. It was a bad break, with only the truss rod and rosewood fretboard holding things together. Speaking of the fretboard, well; it was in no better shape than the rest of this guitar.

After determining the repairs/servicing that would have to be carried out, this restoration job was split into three distinct phases: (i) degrime/derust/clean/polish, (ii) electronics overhaul/upgrade; and (iii) scarf joint repair/neck refinish. The pics below cover only phases (i) and (ii) of this restoration. Phase (iii), namely the scarf joint repair and neck refinish, will be covered in Part Two of this series. Thanks for dropping by, and see you soon :)





Image 1 - Headstock before and after cleaning


Image 2 - Fretboard and frets before and after cleaning


Image 3 - Control cavity components and wiring as received


Image 4 - Corroded pots, toggle switch and output jack


Image 5 - Pickups as received


Image 6 - Years of dust, dirt and grime


Image 7 - Hardware removed for cleaning


Image 8 - Pickups reinstalled after servicing


Image 9 - New components and wiring


Image 10 - New Neutrik/Rean NYS229 output jack


Wednesday, December 16, 2020

RC Stromm Acoustic Guitar Headstock Repair

This acoustic guitar came in a few years ago for a headstock repair. I used a nyatoh backstrap overlay to repair the damage, and it has held up admirably all this while. That was until one of Che'gu Awal's guitar students carelessly dropped it after a private practice session. This time the crack was in a different location and even more severe, which led me to suspect that there was a problem with the wood of the neck itself.

After the back of the headstock and neck was shaved down, I decided to remove wood from both sides of the crack; and glue in rectangular blocks of wood for reinforcement. Upon chiseling out wood to form channels for the wood blocks, my earlier suspicions were confirmed. Wood on either side of the truss rod, especially in the truss rod area; was rotten. So rotten, in fact; that some sections looked as if they'd been eaten by termites.

Once the wood blocks had been glued in, the back of the neck was shaved to accept a backstrap overlay. This time, the backstrap overlay consisted of a "sandwich" of pine and chengal. And instead of bending the overlay, an extra-thick slab of pine was carefully shaped to conform to the profile of the shaved headstock/neck area.

The backstrap overlay was glued in with Titebond III, clamped; and set aside for a week. Once the clamps were off, it was time to trim the overlay to size and reshape it as necessary. As it turned out, most of the chengal ended up being sanded off completely; leaving just two small areas near the end of the headstock and volute. Yes, I added a volute because I believe it adds strength to the weakest areas of the headstock/neck joint.

Following this, the entire back of the neck was sanded down, and refinished in Tru-Oil. About 10-15 coats were put down, with some steel-wooling action going down every three coats or so. The final coat was considerably thinned down with naphtha; and left to cure for about a week. As a finishing touch, Birchwood Casey Gun Stock Wax was applied to the entire back of the neck and headstock; and the area buffed by hand.

This RC Stromm Acoustic Guitar came in at the end of July, and the job was only completed yesterday. This means that it took about five months for this repair, imagine that! I sent the guitar to Che'gu Awal earlier tonight at RF MusicWorks. While he was trying out the guitar, I recorded a short video (with his permission, of course). I've also put together another video that summarizes how this repair was carried out. Here are the videos, then. Do check them out:

RC Stromm Headstock Repair

RC Stromm Acoustic after Neck Repair

With that, I humbly take my leave. Thanks for dropping by. Stay home, stay safe, and God bless :)

 















Thursday, March 05, 2020

Gibson SG Special Headstock and Neck Repair

There's a sad story and lesson to be learnt behind today's ebony Gibson SG Special Headstock and Neck Repair tale. The used SG in question had been purchased online for a mere 2.5K. That was way too cheap, and for a reason. The current owner only found out that something was not right after playing it for the first time at home. The black paint suddenly split open to reveal a crack where the neck meets the headstock. He immediately contacted the seller, who replied to his messages for a while, and then dropped off the web; never to be seen or heard of again.

The heartbroken owner, who works and lives in Dungun; brought it to me on one of his rare off days. He really loved the SG, it had been his dream guitar ever since he'd started playing. I immediately noticed some black overspray on the sides of the nut, and curiosity stoked by what I was seeing; scraped off the paint and sealer right down to bare wood. We looked carefully at what was thus revealed -- remnants of glue from a previous botched repair job. So it was clear that the dishonest seller had knowingly offloaded a damaged SG to our unsuspecting buyer.

Though visibly devastated by the confirmation of his suspicions, the owner quietly asked if his beloved SG could be restored; and if it would be worth it. I told him that he'd gotten the guitar at a ridiculous price, what more with a genuine Gibson USA gig bag thrown in for free. As such, even with the added-on cost of a headstock/neck repair; it would definitely be worth it. And so, I ended up being entrusted with the task of restoring this ebony beauty to gig-able condition.

Due to the severity of the damage, I knew that nothing short of a full backstrap overlay would suffice for this repair. But that would mean that the serial number would be removed. Now, as this was a genuine Gibson SG Special (yes, I checked), it would permanently devalue the instrument. But the owner was okay with this as he was never ever going to sell it. For good measure, I decided that I would carefully saw off the upper portion of the back of the headstock (where the serial number and "Made in USA" is) and keep it safe in the gig bag pocket.

The first part of the job was cleaning off as much of the old glue residue as humanly possible. Once this was done, I re-glued the crack with Titebond III and clamped it shut with rubber bands. After two days, off came the rubber bands; and I proceeded to remove wood from the back of the headstock and neck. That is, after sawing off the upper portion; as planned earlier.

Having removed the required amount of wood from the area to be repaired, evidence of the previous botched repair revealed itself in the form of two figure eight-shaped wood inserts/splines. I've arrowed them in the related pic so you can see for yourself what I'm talking about. Next, a pre-shaped and pre-bent Nyatoh backstrap overlay was glued on to the back of the headstock/neck, once again with my go-to wood glue; Titebond III. Clamps were applied, and eventually removed after five days.

After removing dried glue squeeze-out, the backstrap overlay was trimmed and scraped to fit. Holes for the tuners were then drilled and the tuners test-fitted. Everything up to this point had gone off without a hitch, thankfully.

The next step was grain filling and sealing, a tedious and repetitive task; but absolutely necessary. Now, I'd normally spray on an undercoat after this, but in this case; I'd have to blend the new finish with the original paint job on the neck. And so, I went straight to color-coating with flat black. Then, it was clear coating time, hang time of about a month; followed by waxing and polishing. It sounds relatively simple, but that's because I've fast-forwarded through mind-numbing tasks such as wet-sanding.

Finally, it was time re-assemble the components previously removed; string her up; and do final setup and testing. This Gibson SG Special passed with flying colors, I'm happy to say. I called the owner, told him the good news; and he asked me to hold on to his baby until he had a day off. So I waited. And waited. Seems he could not wrangle a day off yet.

And so, on a dark and stormy night; the wife and I decided to deliver the SG to him instead. We drove all the way to Dungun via the Lebuh Raya Pantai Timur (LPT), which proved to be an interesting experience. Met up with the owner, who came in his work clothes on a motorbike; much to my surprise. Happily took possession of his SG, slung the gig bag over his shoulder; and off he went into the night.

As for the two of us, we were hungry. Found a nice little restaurant, had our dinner; and headed back to Kuantan. If the drive to Dungun was interesting, the return trip was "far out," as John Denver used to say. And why not, it was raining cats and dogs, the wind was a-blowing, lightning and thunder flashed and rumbled; and there was a few inches of water on the surface of the road. Thank goodness we arrived home safely that night. What an adventure it had been, and all because of a lovely ebony Gibson SG Special!