Friday, September 19, 2025

Overhauling an RCE PJ Bass - Part 2

Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6

Part 2 - Hardware

Now that we've taken a look at the neck and body of this RCE PJ Bass, let's move on to the hardware, most of which is metal. At the headstock end, those four open gear tuning machines have begun to rust, are deeply pitted, and do not turn smoothly.



Open Gear Tuning Machines



Meanwhile, looking at the vintage-style bridge, the first thing that comes to mind is corrosion. The rectangular neck plate fares a little better, though, displaying lots of scratches but hardly any corrosion. Taking the bridge apart reveals rusty intonation screws, intonation springs and saddle height adjustment hex screws.



Bridge, Neck Plate and Gasket - Top

Bridge, Neck Plate and Gasket - Underside

Rusty Bridge Components



As one might expect, a bass of this style utilizes lots of metal hardware, including screws, washers, nuts, springs, and the like. As can be seen in the image below, corrosion and grime are the order of the day. The two knurled control knobs, for example, have lost most of their chrome plating, revealing bare rusty metal. Well, we'll have to determine what can be saved and what will simply have to be replaced.



Various Rusty Components



This bass features a three-ply WBW pickguard secured to the body with 11 screws. Removing this pickguard took hours, as most of the corroded screws were impossible to turn. Worst of the lot was one screw at the lower horn. It was not only stuck fast in the wood, but also to the pickguard itself. While I did eventually manage to pry the pickguard off the body, this screw took with it a sizeable sliver of wood. Now, the screw was still stuck in the pickguard despite my best efforts. I had to use a mini blow torch to heat what was left of the screw, and quickly push it out. In the images below, I've circled the screw hole in question. 



Pickguard - Top

Pickguard - Underside



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