Remember that brand new
Sonic Blue Squier Classic Vibe '60s Mustang in a Koda gig bag? Well, it's going to get some help. Let us begin with a really close look at the tarnished control plate. We'll look at both the upper and lower surfaces of the plate with the hardware and electronics still attached.
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Area Around the Volume and Tone Knobs |
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Area Around the Output Jack |
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Area Around the Volume Pot |
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Area Around the Tone Pot and Output Jack |
The black plastic volume and tone knobs have been detached from the pot shafts. They're set screw knobs, so I had to use a hex key to loosen the screws before pulling them off. I've also taken a pic of the undersides because there are some interesting markings to be seen. "Cosmo" is probably the manufacturer, but why are they numbered differently?
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Volume and Tone Knobs - Topside |
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Volume and Tone Knobs - Underside |
With the knobs detached, one can see even more tarnish on the upper surface of the control plate. However, the full extent of tarnishing is revealed after the pots and jack have been removed. It does not look good, I'll admit. However, do bear in mind that nickel plating tarnishes much faster than chrome.
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Upper Surface - Knobs Detached |
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Upper Surface - Pots and Jack Detached |
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Lower Surface - Pots and Jack Detached |
Time to get to work, then. The most gentle yet effective method of removing the grime and tarnish would be hand rubbing with tried-and-true Autosol Metal Polish. I will not be using a rotary tool polishing wheel this time around, as there is a risk of damaging the delicate nickel plating.
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Cleaning and Polishing in Progress |
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Upper Surface After Polishing |
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Lower Surface After Polishing |
The control plate is all clean and shiny now, but I think I'll take a moment to talk about the mini pots and related matters. Both pots are Alpha Korea audio taper 250K, as indicated by the markings "A250K." Meanwhile, you might like to know that the "2A503J" marking on the dark green polyester film capacitor means that its value is 0.05 uF [microfarads]. And while we're at it, do also take note that the control cavity is shielded with conductive paint.
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A250K Volume and Tone Pots |
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Underside of Tone Pot |
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0.05 uF Tone Capacitor |
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Shielded Control Cavity |
Right, let's reinstall the pots and jack and proceed with what else is left to be done. Recalling the tarnished frets and dry fretboard, I've cleaned and polished the frets, and also conditioned the Indian Laurel fretboard. This fretboard was so dry that it took three applications of lemon oil to hydrate it sufficiently.
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Pots and Jack Reinstalled |
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First Application of Lemon Oil |
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After Three Applications of Lemon Oil |
Kudos to Squier for including an accessory pack containing a fold-out manual, a tremolo arm, and three hex keys for adjusting the truss rod, tremolo arm torque and bridge height. After installing the tremolo arm, the Mustang was set up with Elixir Nanoweb 9 - 42 gauge strings.
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Accessory Pack - Tremolo Arm |
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Accessory Pack - Hex Keys |
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Elixir Nanoweb 9 - 42 Strings |
This Squier Classic Vibe '60s Mustang® is now good to go. As there's still some daylight left, I've been able to snap a few pics for posterity. No, I did not take any pics of the back of the guitar as it would not sit on the stand with the tremolo arm in place.
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Squier CV '60s Mustang - Front View |
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Squier CV '60s Mustang - Headstock Face |
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Squier CV '60s Mustang - Fretboard |
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Squier CV '60s Mustang - Front of Body |
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