Showing posts with label bodyrepair. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bodyrepair. Show all posts

Friday, January 15, 2021

Vintage Aria 1820 Restoration: Part Four

Quick Links:    Part One | Part Two | Part Three | Part Four

This is the fourth and final post on a vintage Aria 1820 short-scale bass restoration job. The bass has been refinished in Flat Black, rewired, reassembled, set up with Ernie Ball 2852 Short Scale Regular Slinkys; and tested with the help of my trusty Laney RB2 bass amp [Gain: 3, Volume: 5, Bass/Mid/Treble: Flat, Compression: On]. 

Both pickups are working, but their output is definitely much lower than typical modern-day bass pickups. One other thing I've noticed is that the amplified volume of the A string is considerably weaker than that of the G, D and E strings. Tell you what. I've uploaded an audio file to SoundCloud, so do give it a listen :)





























Friday, January 08, 2021

Vintage Aria 1820 Restoration: Part Three

Quick Links:    Part One | Part Two | Part Three | Part Four

This post is the third of an ongoing series on a vintage Aria 1820 short-scale bass restoration job. At this point in time, the body had been separated from the neck, a couple holes plugged; and the headstock refinished in Tru-Oil. The existing tuner peg holes had also been reamed to accommodate new tuners; and they fit nicely.

Now it was time to deal with the badly delaminated body. First of all, as much of the existing finish, sealer and grey autobody filler was scraped off with the aid of a heat gun. Following this, the delaminated edges of the maple top and bottom were glued and clamped to the ash center layer. Once the glue had dried, a sanding we did go; right up to 240 grit.

Having sanded off the dried glue, remnants of the old paint and sealer, as well as the most of the autobody filler; specific areas of the body that needed to be repaired were clearly visible. These areas were repaired with glued-in slivers of wood, and also wood dust mixed with super glue. Once sufficient time had elapsed, the clamps and tape used were removed; and the whole body sanded once again.

The next step was sealing, filling, and strengthening the body before anything else was done to it. Several coats of super glue were used for this purpose, with a lot of sanding done in between coats. After the last coat of super glue had been sanded, a generous layer of Elmer's Wood Filler was applied. Once the filler had dried, the body was sanded yet again; creating a sufficiently even and smooth surface.

Meanwhile, the pickups needed some work. They were functioning, for sure; but it was the leads and magnets that needed attention badly. The frayed ground/shield braid and cracked insulation meant that a short could occur unexpectedly. Also worrying was the fact that the pickup magnets could move around as they were not properly secured to the bottom of the pickups. That being said, the best remedy was to replace the pickup leads; and attach the magnets securely with a little hot glue.

As for the filthy and discolored pickguard, it was given a good scrubbing and hung up to dry. The underside was then shielded with aluminium foil. Cheap, yes, but it does the job. Following this, the new three-way toggle switch, Alpha pots, tone cap and Neutrik NYS229 output jack were installed. 

Getting back to the body, new holes had to be drilled for the neck plate and screws, and the neck reattached in preparation for the next task; locating the correct position for the new bridge. After taking lots of measurements and drawing the necessary guide lines, new bridge-mounting holes were drilled. The bridge was then installed temporarily to check for proper string/neck alignment.

At this point, most of the holes that needed to be drilled had been drilled; save for the pickguard. So the pickguard was laid on the body, aligned with the edges of the body and neck pocket; and taped in place. The holes for the pickguard screws were then drilled using my trusty Cremel [Chinese Dremel knock-off]; and countersunk 1/2" screws installed. A new tug bar was also test-fitted, as the original one had long been lost in the mists of time. 

Once the positioning of all components had been finalized, the neck was separated from the body once again, and the pickguard removed. As one can guess, this was done in preparation for the next step of this Aria 1820 Bass Restoration; namely refinishing. Refinishing should be covered in an upcoming post, so do stay tuned for updates. Thanks for checking in, and God bless :)





































Friday, February 28, 2020

Yamaha CG-110 Classical Guitar Repair

Introduction
It was an old, beat up guitar. The finish was cracked, flaky and severely discolored in several areas. The fretboard was dry and caked with hardened sweat and grime. The frets, well, they were not too worn; but definitely needed a good steel-wooling and polish.The tuners were missing, and the original nut had been replaced with one that was not only poorly-cut; but also not wide enough to cover the full width of the fretboard.

To make matters worse, the bridge had come off some time in the past, only to be re-glued to the top and fastened with wood screws for good measure. That 'repair' didn't last very long, as the bridge had popped off once again; this time taking with it slivers of wood. I looked at the original bridge, it was full of holes and had to be replaced. The body was another sad story. It was was peppered with numerous dings, divots, and deep scratches; and literally coming apart at the seams, particularly in the area around the neck heel.

Work Done
Repairs to the body were addressed by first gluing the affected areas back together with Titebond III, followed by clamping. After the glue had dried, the repaired areas were saturated with super glue until a hard protective layer formed. This layer was sanded flat before the next layer of super glue was applied. The process was repeated ad nauseam; but this was the only way to restore structural integrity to the body.

The fretboard was given a new lease of life after some serious scraping, cleaning with naphta (Zippo lighter fluid); and generous application of lemon oil. The badly-tarnished frets were abraded with 400 - 1.2K grits of sandpaper, steel-wooled with 0000 grade stuff; and given a light polish with Autosol. The nut slot was cleaned out, and a custom-fitted bone nut glued into place. Those missing tuners were also replaced.

Re-gluing the bridge was by far the most time-consuming task. The area beneath the bridge had not been taped off before lacquer was first applied at the factory. This meant that from day one, the bridge had been glued to lacquer, and not wood. It's no wonder, then, that the bridge eventually popped off. I've seen this shortcoming on quite a few acoustic guitars so far; including a rather expensive 12-string. So, after marking the correct position of the new bridge, I had no choice but to meticulously scrape off all the existing lacquer underneath, repair the tear-out; and level the area before re-gluing said bridge.

It seemed like forever, but eventually the guitar was ready for re-stringing and final setup. O happy day, I must say the bone nut and saddle were a much-needed upgrade for this grand old lady. As always, no regrets, even though the smell while filing or sanding bone invariably makes me want to puke.