Once upon a time, someone thought it would be uber kewl to stick a jagged mirror fragment in between the neck and bridge humbucker on this '80s MIJ Aria Pro II ZZ Deluxe Zebra Solidbody. Well, the current owner begs to differ, and he's asked me to remove it. Easier said than done, though. Took me nearly two days from start to finish.
Day 1 - I started off by spraying a generous amount of sticker remover around the mirror and letting it sit for a while. Then I tried to pry the mirror loose by sticking a thin guitar pick underneath. After trashing a few completely good picks, I finally realized that this was never going to work.
Day 2 - Time to get tough. The images below detail the painstaking process, which included more sticker remover, a rubber mallet, a flathead screwdriver, and a small plastic scraper. I'm afraid I forgot to snap a pic of the offending mirror before starting work, a thousand apologies.
This Sqoe SEST230 HSS was at CA Guitar Repair last year for a setup. Since then, a number of issues have come to the fore. It's 9:17 PM and Hakim, the owner, has just arrived from Nilai (Negeri Sembilan). He would like me to address the aforementioned issues and also restring his SEST230 with a set of 10s.
This BC Rich US Series Outlaw suffered a fall recently. The owner has brought it to CA Guitar Repair today as the scarf joint (neck) has started to separate. Kindly take note that this job will only involve neck repairs, as per the owner's request.
It's July 18, 2025. Host Korib Ibrahim gently coaxes a group of Chinese tourists into going onstage at Tangga Food Court. Ably backed by DJ Abe Mus, these fine people proceed to entertain patrons with two Cantonese numbers.
It's been nearly two weeks since I reglued the bridge onto this Baby Taylor BT1e, and that's more than enough time for the Titebond to cure. So, off come the clamps, followed by a little cleanup. I've also conditioned the fretboard, polished the frets, and waxed the body and neck. My strings of choice? D'Addario EZ890s, as they're the lightest acoustic strings available locally. We don't want the bridge lifting again, do we?
What we have here is a 1980s Fender MIJ Capistrano Dreadnought Acoustic Guitar that has seen better days. Watch the video closely and you'll notice the areas in need of attention. Meanwhile, here are some specifications based on online information and my own observations.
The weather was fine today, allowing me to work outside. Tried scraping the layer of dried glue stuck to the top, but hardly anything came off. Instead, the dried glue embedded itself even deeper into the spruce, resulting in a smooth surface that fresh glue would not adhere to.
Scratch the scraping, then. On to Plan B. Plan B? Yes, it's Goof Off Pro Strength Super Glue Remover to the rescue! Apply directly to the dried glue, wait about a minute, and wipe away the dissolved glue. In this case, I used lots of cotton swabs, followed by cleanup with isopropyl alcohol. A slow and tedious process, no doubt, but absolutely necessary.
Removing Dried Glue With Goof Off
Cleanup with Isopropyl Alcohol
No More Dried Glue
Time to deal with the underside of the ebony bridge, methinks. Elbow grease, sanding blocks and various grits of abrasive paper got the job done fairly quickly, thankfully. The last pass was with 80 grit, as I wanted a slightly rough surface. This would give the glue something to "bite" into.
Sanding the Underside of the Bridge
Last Pass With 80 Grit
Dry fitting the bridge left the two locating pins embedded firmly in the spruce top, so I let them be. Let's glue the bridge back onto the top, then. My glue of choice? Titebond Original Wood Glue, of course. The bridge has also been clamped in place with three StewMac soundhole clamps, which will be removed once the glue has cured.
At this point in time, we've managed to detach the bridge from the top of this Baby Taylor BT1e without causing any visible damage. However, we cannot dive into any scraping or sanding just yet. This is because the resulting wood dust and glue residue will somehow find their way onto and into the ES-B electronics. And we can't have that, can we?
So, we'll have to dismantle the electronics and keep them safe from said contaminants. The only problem is that both the pickup and endpin jack cables are tightly secured to the inside of the upper bout with a self-stick metal wiring clip, and I have yet to pry it open.
Self-Stick Wiring Clip
What a relief! I've finally managed to pry the clip open and release the cables. I've also unscrewed the ES-B preamp and endpin jack, although the pickup and endpin jack cables are still plugged in. But not for long, though. Unplugging these cables couldn't be any simpler.
ES-B Preamp and Related Cables
Pickup and Endpin Jack Sockets
Right, then. We've unplugged the two cables, and now can examine them closely. The pickup cable terminates in a mini mono jack, as only two signals are concerned, namely, the hot and ground. The endpin jack cable, on the other hand, terminates in a slightly larger mini stereo jack. This is because it not only carries the preamp hot and ground signals, but also the ground from the batteries.