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It's been 48 hours since the loose brace was reglued, and the clamps have been removed. As there's no more creaking, we'll call this job done. And if it ever happens again, touch wood; we'll know what to do. With the brace repair out of the way, let's shift our focus to the fretboard.
The fretboard needs to be thoroughly cleaned and prepped for refinishing. After loosening the truss rod completely, we've started off with an 80 grit sanding beam to level the fretboard. Further cleaning will be carried out with finer grits of diamond sharpening stones and abrasive paper. I've taken extra care in removing as much of the grime, discoloration and decaying wood as possible, while maintaining the original fretboard radius of 16 inches.
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| Fretboard Prep Commences |
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| After a Couple Passes of the Sanding Beam |
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| Fretboard Prep Completed |
With the fretboard sufficiently prepped, it's time to apply a couple coats of Otter Sanding Sealer. This product is water based and dries in a jiffy, making quick work of application, sanding; and further application. On the flip side, cleaning out the fret slots after the sealer has cured is a really arduous task. However, this has to be done. We can't have any gunk filling up those slots now, can we?
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| Applying Otter Sanding Sealer |
We're now at the final stage of refinishing, which is the application of the top coat. As I write, the sixth coat of Minwax Antique Oil Finish has been laid down, and the fretboard is starting to look nice and slick. After this coat has cured, I'll smooth things out with 0000 steel wool, blow off any residue; and apply the final coats.
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| Applying Minwax Antique Oil Finish |
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