Monday, March 29, 2021
Ibanez RG370AHMZ | Part One
Thursday, March 25, 2021
Cort T35 Five-String Bass
Tuesday, March 23, 2021
Jay Turser JT-220 Overhaul | Part Two
Jay Turser JT-220 Overhaul | Part One
In any case, the JT-220 was covered in layers of crud, dirt and grime, totally unplayable; and made no sound when plugged in. I knew I'd have to remove all the hardware, service and clean whatever was saveable; and replace what was too far gone to be reused. For starters, the nut was completely worn out, so it was definitely going to be replaced. Then there was the question of the truss rod, which was so encrusted in crud that doubted if the adjustment nut would turn at all.
Meanwhile, the rosewood fretboard, frets and fretboard binding were a right royal mess; I tell you. I'd have to do a thorough fretboard recondition, fret polish and light binding scraping for sure. Next were the twin humbuckers, which were still working; and had chromed plastic covers. Most of the chrome had peeled off, exposing the underlying crème plastic. It wasn't a pretty sight, and I knew I'd be foregoing the covers after servicing the pickups.
The last aspect to be evaluated was the electronics. The three-way toggle switch, mini pots and output jack were badly corroded. Besides this, plain unshielded wire had been used for all connections. The remedy, then, would be to replace all the electronics (save the pickups) and do a complete rewire with shielded cable wherever possible. In the next post, we'll see what was done to get this Jay Turser JT-220 back in shape.
Sunday, March 21, 2021
ESP Floyd Rose to Hardtail Conversion | Part Four
This post is the fourth of five regarding an ongoing Floyd Rose to Hardtail [fixed bridge] conversion on a used ESP GrassRoots G-HR-49 solidbody. In this post, we'll talk about what needed to be done; as per the owner’s instructions: “install a strings-through-body hardtail bridge” and “make the guitar presentable and fully-functional.”
Before installing the hardtail bridge, the pickups and neck had to be temporarily reattached to the body to ensure proper string-fretboard and string-pickup polepiece alignment. Masking tape was also applied to the front of the guitar, accurate measurements taken; and lines drawn.
These measurements and lines enabled me to determine the correct position for the bridge. Two “dummy” strings (low and high E) were also used to determine side-to-side and polepiece alignment.
Once I was satisfied with the position of the bridge, holes were marked and drilled for the five bridge mounting screws. The bridge was then installed in preparation for the next step, drilling the string-through holes.
After carefully marking the positions of the six string-through holes, the bridge was removed to make way for my rotary tool and Dremel Plunge Router Attachment. I would have loved to have used my drill press, but its throat was too narrow to accommodate a guitar body. The Dremel attachment, albeit being a poor cousin of a proper drill press; is still capable of helping one to drill perpendicular holes.
The six string-through holes were then drilled into the top of the guitar. The holes for the high and low E strings were drilled all the way through to the bottom, while the remaining four were only drilled halfway.
The body was then flipped, and the bridge aligned with the two E string holes. In this way, it was possible to mark the position of the holes for the B, G, D and A strings on the bottom of the body.
Subsequently, these four holes were drilled from the bottom until they “met” the corresponding holes previously drilled from the top. Then, to accommodate the string ferrules that would be inserted later, a larger sized drill bit was used to countersink all six holes.
Test-fitting the ferrules went okay, and they were removed for safekeeping. They’d only be reinstalled after the body had been refinished. Meanwhile, a hole was also drilled into the top from underneath where the bridge would be, right into the bridge pickup cavity. This hole would allow me to run a ground wire from the bridge plate into the control cavity.
Now that all the drilling had been done, the whole body was given a final inspection. Any low spots were filled with Elmer’s Wood Filler and sanded level, while gaps were sealed with a mixture of wood dust and super glue. Next, after a light scuffing with 0000 steel wool, the whole body was wiped down with naphtha.
And of course, in order to “make the guitar presentable,” I’d have to refinish the body. Samurai 29/109A Flat Black was my choice of color coat, and for top coat; Samurai F1 Flat Clear. After the final coat of clear had been applied on March 6th, the body was set aside to give the finish adequate time to cure. Thanks for dropping by. Now, since you're already here; do check out this YouTube video I uploaded to complement this post. Muchas gracias :)