Monday, March 29, 2021

Ibanez RG370AHMZ | Part One


According to Darrell Braun Guitar, "... this RG is straight up blue-tiful!" I couldn't agree more, Darrell. I was grinning from ear to ear when one of these beauties came in for a string change and setup recently. Now, without further ado, let's peruse some specs, based on information sourced from Ibanez and the Ibanez Wiki; as well as my own observations.

Body: Solid ash, bound
Finish: Top - Blue Moon Burst (BMT), Back and Sides - Natural
Neck: Maple, Wizard III profile, bolt-on, All Access Neck Joint (AANJ)
Fretboard: Maple, 16" radius, 25.5" scale, 24 jumbo frets, black dot inlays
Bridge: Edge Zero II tremolo bridge with ZPS3Fe "counter-tension tuning stabilizer system"
Pickup Configuration: HSH
Bridge Pickup: Ibanez Quantum Bridge (humbucker/passive/ceramic)
Middle Pickup: Ibanez Quantum Middle (single-coil/passive/alnico)
Neck Pickup: Ibanez Quantum Neck (humbucker/passive/ceramic)
Controls: Master Volume/Master Tone/5-Way Pickup Selector
Hardware: Cosmo Black

Well folks, that's about it for this introductory post. In Part Two, we'll take a closer look at the Edge Zero II tremolo bridge, ZPS3Fe "counter-tension tuning stabilizer system;" and also the electronics. Meanwhile, do enjoy the pics :)















Thursday, March 25, 2021

Cort T35 Five-String Bass

Here's a brand-new Indonesian-made Cort T35 in gloss black. It belongs to an ex-student of mine, who's been active on the local indie circuit for a few years now. The bass was unplayable and buzzing badly in the lower frets. Seriously, the strings were virtually laying flat on the fretboard. He'd just changed strings, and they were of a much lighter gauge than the ones that the bass was originally set up with. I reckon the B string was a flimsy 125. 

So now, the tension of these strings wasn't enough to counteract the tension of the truss rod, and the neck was back-bowed. The solution then, was to loosen the truss rod gradually until the fretboard had enough relief; and then only proceed with string height and intonation adjustments. 

One very interesting feature about the T35 is that it sports a 35" scale. Yes, I measured and it's exactly that. In effect, using the same tuning and same gauge of strings, you'd be able to set string action lower sans buzzing on a 35-inch scale as opposed to the standard 34 inches. 

Now, as the bass was already in the shop, I couldn't resist taking a peek at the innards. I also did some research on the web, and coupled with my own observations; have been able to come up with the following specs:

Body: Agathis
Neck: Bolt-on, Canadian Hard Maple, heel-end truss rod access
Fretboard: Rosewood, 16" radius, 35" scale, 24 jumbo frets, White dot inlays
Bridge: EB7(5)
Pickups: PDX-5/F and PDX-5/R passive humbuckers
Electronics: 2-band active EQ
Power Source: 9V Battery
Controls: Master Volume, Pickup Pan Pot, Bass Boost/Cut, Treble Boost/Cut















Tuesday, March 23, 2021

Jay Turser JT-220 Overhaul | Part Two


In the previous post, we were introduced to a Jay Turser JT-220 solidbody that was badly in need of an overhaul. Now, in this post, I shall briefly outline what was actually done to make this instrument playable again.

For starters, both humbuckers were dismantled, relieved of their covers; and given a thorough cleaning. I also rewrapped the coils in fresh black pickup tape from StewMac. Now that everything was looking much better, the pickups were reassembled without the covers; something I knew I'd do all along. The rest of the hardware and plastic parts were scrubbed clean and polished where possible. 

As for the electronics, they were all presented with a letter of appreciation and given an honorable discharge. After bidding farewell to the retirees, it was time to welcome the new recruits; which included good 'ole Alpha A500K full-sized pots. I also used caps of different values for the tone pots: 0.015uF (neck) and 0.022uF (bridge). And yes, quality shielded cable was used extensively in the rewire. I guess that about sums up this Jay Turser JT-220 Overhaul. Thanks for dropping by. Now, before you go, do pop over to SoundCloud and listen to what the guitar sounds like in both Clean and Overdrive mode.














Jay Turser JT-220 Overhaul | Part One


Time and time again I am presented with instruments that have been allowed to fall into ruin and decay due to sheer neglect. Now, while I do not relish such encounters, I deeply respect the owner's desire to get his or her instrument back in playing condition. Such was the case with this gloss black Jay Turser JT-220 solidbody; which in many ways reminded me of a typical Les Paul Standard. I did look for the serial number, but it was not to be found anywhere. Now, according to sources on the Web, the earliest Jay Turser Les Paul copies were made in Korea and did not have serial numbers. If so, could this guitar be one of them?

In any case, the JT-220 was covered in layers of crud, dirt and grime, totally unplayable; and made no sound when plugged in. I knew I'd have to remove all the hardware, service and clean whatever was saveable; and replace what was too far gone to be reused. For starters, the nut was completely worn out, so it was definitely going to be replaced. Then there was the question of the truss rod, which was so encrusted in crud that doubted if the adjustment nut would turn at all.

Meanwhile, the rosewood fretboard, frets and fretboard binding were a right royal mess; I tell you. I'd have to do a thorough fretboard recondition, fret polish and light binding scraping for sure. Next were the twin humbuckers, which were still working; and had chromed plastic covers. Most of the chrome had peeled off, exposing the underlying crème plastic. It wasn't a pretty sight, and I knew I'd be foregoing the covers after servicing the pickups.

The last aspect to be evaluated was the electronics. The three-way toggle switch, mini pots and output jack were badly corroded. Besides this, plain unshielded wire had been used for all connections. The remedy, then, would be to replace all the electronics (save the pickups) and do a complete rewire with shielded cable wherever possible. In the next post, we'll see what was done to get this Jay Turser JT-220 back in shape.













Sunday, March 21, 2021

ESP Floyd Rose to Hardtail Conversion | Part Four

Related Posts
Part One | Part Two | Part Three | Part Four | Part Five

This post is the fourth of five regarding an ongoing Floyd Rose to Hardtail [fixed bridge] conversion on a used ESP GrassRoots G-HR-49 solidbody. In this post, we'll talk about what needed to be done; as per the owner’s instructions: “install a strings-through-body hardtail bridge” and “make the guitar presentable and fully-functional.”

Before installing the hardtail bridge, the pickups and neck had to be temporarily reattached to the body to ensure proper string-fretboard and string-pickup polepiece alignment. Masking tape was also applied to the front of the guitar, accurate measurements taken; and lines drawn.

These measurements and lines enabled me to determine the correct position for the bridge. Two “dummy” strings (low and high E) were also used to determine side-to-side and polepiece alignment.

Once I was satisfied with the position of the bridge, holes were marked and drilled for the five bridge mounting screws. The bridge was then installed in preparation for the next step, drilling the string-through holes.

After carefully marking the positions of the six string-through holes, the bridge was removed to make way for my rotary tool and Dremel Plunge Router Attachment. I would have loved to have used my drill press, but its throat was too narrow to accommodate a guitar body. The Dremel attachment, albeit being a poor cousin of a proper drill press; is still capable of helping one to drill perpendicular holes.

The six string-through holes were then drilled into the top of the guitar. The holes for the high and low E strings were drilled all the way through to the bottom, while the remaining four were only drilled halfway.

The body was then flipped, and the bridge aligned with the two E string holes. In this way, it was possible to mark the position of the holes for the B, G, D and A strings on the bottom of the body.

Subsequently, these four holes were drilled from the bottom until they “met” the corresponding holes previously drilled from the top. Then, to accommodate the string ferrules that would be inserted later, a larger sized drill bit was used to countersink all six holes.

Test-fitting the ferrules went okay, and they were removed for safekeeping. They’d only be reinstalled after the body had been refinished. Meanwhile, a hole was also drilled into the top from underneath where the bridge would be, right into the bridge pickup cavity. This hole would allow me to run a ground wire from the bridge plate into the control cavity.

Now that all the drilling had been done, the whole body was given a final inspection. Any low spots were filled with Elmer’s Wood Filler and sanded level, while gaps were sealed with a mixture of wood dust and super glue. Next, after a light scuffing with 0000 steel wool, the whole body was wiped down with naphtha.

And of course, in order to “make the guitar presentable,” I’d have to refinish the body. Samurai 29/109A Flat Black was my choice of color coat, and for top coat; Samurai F1 Flat Clear. After the final coat of clear had been applied on March 6th, the body was set aside to give the finish adequate time to cure. Thanks for dropping by. Now, since you're already here; do check out this YouTube video I uploaded to complement this post. Muchas gracias :)