According to The Guitar Dater Project, this three-color sunburst Jazz Bass was made at Fender's Ensenada Plant in "2012 or 2013." Based on my own observations as well as information sourced from Buffalo Music and Reverb; let's take a look at a few specifications.
Body
Alder
Three-color sunburst
Neck
Maple
Skunk stripe
1970s “C” profile
“Bullet” truss rod system.
Fretboard
Bound rosewood
7.25” radius
20 vintage-style frets
Pearloid block inlays
Side dot markers
Binding extends over the fret ends (fret nibs).
Electronics
Vintage-style Alnico Jazz Bass single-coil pickups (neck/bridge)
Neck Volume/Bridge Volume/Master Tone
CTS 250K pots (audio taper/solid shaft)
0.05uF tone capacitor
Shielded control cavity (conductive shielding paint)
Hardware
Chrome
Vintage-style four-saddle bridge
Four-bolt neck plate
"Fender" stamped open-gear tuning machines
Jazz Bass knobs with set screws
Three-ply B/W/B pickguard
Showing posts with label fenderjazzbass. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fenderjazzbass. Show all posts
Sunday, October 25, 2020
Fender Classic Series '70s Jazz Bass
Wednesday, July 24, 2019
Late 70s Fender Jazz Bass Neck Straightening Challenge
According to The Guitar Dater Project, this Fender Jazz Bass "was made at the Fullerton Plant (Fender - CBS Era), USA in 1977 - 1978." That's the good news. The bad news is that it was submerged during the great flood of 2013, and damaged beyond repair (so thought the original owner). Rather than let this beauty go to waste, he gifted it to the current owner; pro bass player Albert Yap. Albert, in turn, wasted no time in sending the bass to a luthier friend in Jakarta.
That luthier did an awesome job of restoring this vintage Jazz Bass, I must say. As the original sunburst finish was a goner, he stripped the body and refinished it natural. The neck was also refretted with jumbo frets and refinished in a very impressive vintage tint. One critical point: the luthier did warn Albert that the truss rod was maxed out, and could snap if anyone ever tried to tighten it further.
Everything was roses until the day when the neck started to develop excessive upbow, resulting in overly high action that made the bass unplayable. Remembering that the truss rod was already maxed out, Albert brought it to me in the hope that I had an alternative solution.
Flexing the neck told me that the truss rod was still intact and doing its job. I inserted a 1/8" hex wrench into the bullet nut, and it was frozen solid -- I couldn't even loosen it! After a few days of heat/cold treatment and lots of lube, I managed to loosen and remove the nut completely. There was lots of gunk to be removed from the inside threads of the nut and threaded portion of the truss rod, that I can tell you.
After taking measurements, I realized that it wasn't the truss rod that was maxed out; but rather the nut itself. The threaded end of the truss rod had reached the end of the threaded channel of the bullet nut, and that's why the nut could not be tightened any further. So now, I had to find a way to create more space in the threaded channel of the nut.
Based on this understanding, I fashioned a couple of truss rod washers that would be slid onto the truss rod before threading on the nut. If all went well, I'd then be able to tighten the truss rod even further. But first, I had to clamp the neck and use heat treatment to gradually force it into a backbow, exposing more of the threaded portion of the truss rod; thereby creating space for the washers. This approach was effective, thankfully; and I was finally able to tighten the truss rod until the fretboard was dead flat.
This being achieved, it was time to do a fret dress. The frets were leveled and recrowned in the usual way, and the bass restrung and tuned to pitch. The sun was shining, and the birds were singing. It was a happy day when Albert came to pick up his beloved bass. Understandably so, for he'd not seen his baby for close to two months.
Then, about two weeks later, he called me to say that the bass had become unplayable once more. History had repeated itself! I was sorely disappointed, to say the least; and told myself that I had better settle this matter once and for all. This time round I repeated what I'd done earlier, albeit going a little more aggressively on the heat treatment. After a month or so, I managed to get the neck to behave itself under tension. Final adjustments were made by Albert himself (he normally does his own setup); who declared the bass playable.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the neck stays this way for many years to come, and gives its owner countless hours of bass-playing pleasure.
That luthier did an awesome job of restoring this vintage Jazz Bass, I must say. As the original sunburst finish was a goner, he stripped the body and refinished it natural. The neck was also refretted with jumbo frets and refinished in a very impressive vintage tint. One critical point: the luthier did warn Albert that the truss rod was maxed out, and could snap if anyone ever tried to tighten it further.
Everything was roses until the day when the neck started to develop excessive upbow, resulting in overly high action that made the bass unplayable. Remembering that the truss rod was already maxed out, Albert brought it to me in the hope that I had an alternative solution.
Flexing the neck told me that the truss rod was still intact and doing its job. I inserted a 1/8" hex wrench into the bullet nut, and it was frozen solid -- I couldn't even loosen it! After a few days of heat/cold treatment and lots of lube, I managed to loosen and remove the nut completely. There was lots of gunk to be removed from the inside threads of the nut and threaded portion of the truss rod, that I can tell you.
After taking measurements, I realized that it wasn't the truss rod that was maxed out; but rather the nut itself. The threaded end of the truss rod had reached the end of the threaded channel of the bullet nut, and that's why the nut could not be tightened any further. So now, I had to find a way to create more space in the threaded channel of the nut.
Based on this understanding, I fashioned a couple of truss rod washers that would be slid onto the truss rod before threading on the nut. If all went well, I'd then be able to tighten the truss rod even further. But first, I had to clamp the neck and use heat treatment to gradually force it into a backbow, exposing more of the threaded portion of the truss rod; thereby creating space for the washers. This approach was effective, thankfully; and I was finally able to tighten the truss rod until the fretboard was dead flat.
This being achieved, it was time to do a fret dress. The frets were leveled and recrowned in the usual way, and the bass restrung and tuned to pitch. The sun was shining, and the birds were singing. It was a happy day when Albert came to pick up his beloved bass. Understandably so, for he'd not seen his baby for close to two months.
Then, about two weeks later, he called me to say that the bass had become unplayable once more. History had repeated itself! I was sorely disappointed, to say the least; and told myself that I had better settle this matter once and for all. This time round I repeated what I'd done earlier, albeit going a little more aggressively on the heat treatment. After a month or so, I managed to get the neck to behave itself under tension. Final adjustments were made by Albert himself (he normally does his own setup); who declared the bass playable.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the neck stays this way for many years to come, and gives its owner countless hours of bass-playing pleasure.
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Labels:
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Wednesday, April 12, 2017
Late 70s S8 Series Fender Jazz Bass
Hmmmm .... there's nothing like a vintage instrument to kick my salivary glands into overdrive. This late 70s sunburst Fender Jazz bass is no exception. It's been the main squeeze of Kuantan-based multi-instrumentalist/slapmeister Achoy for as long as anyone can remember, and a legend in its own right.
Checking the serial number at Fender's U.S. Instruments Product Dating website got me a little confused. According to Fender, an "S8 + 5 digits" serial number denotes an instrument manufactured between 1977 and 1978. But what about an "S8 + 6 digits" serial number? Further research on the web revealed that I was not the only one facing this dilemma, and no one seemed to have an answer.
As a last resort, I emailed Fender Consumer Relations with a couple of pics of the bass, and was relieved to be told that "CBS typically used 5 or 6 digits after the prefix, so it's completely normal to see 6." They also confirmed the authenticity of the instrument. So, folks, the Jazz Bass dates to between 1977 and 1978.
Years of sweaty and smoky gigs had taken their toll on this bass. Both the bridge components and bullet truss rod adjustment nut were immobile, metal fused to metal by layers of hardened crud and rust. Additionally, the neck had way too much relief, and the G string was noting out at the upper reaches of the fretboard. Not good, as Achoy loves to solo way up high.
Some people might find the condition of the bass a tad off-putting, especially the gnarly back of the neck. But this is exactly what Achoy loves --- "loads and loads of mojo," says he.
The electronics were working fine, so a few squirts of contact cleaner was all that was needed. I was surprised to find that the control cavity was shielded with carbon paint, complete with a grounding tab. The condition of the tab told me that it had been in there for at least as long as the CTS pots had. The plastic output jack is another story, however. I assume it was a replacement for the original Switchcraft jack.
The 7.25" radius bound fingerboard sports 20 well-worn frets, and looks more like ebony than rosewood. Nice and smooth, I tell you. Yes, I did mention that the frets are "well worn." Does Achoy want a fret dress? No, he says, coz he likes it the way it is. When the frets eventually get totally worn down, he'll send the bass in for a full refret. That's what he says, and I'm fine with that.
Meanwhile, the body looks like it's solid ash. Talk about heavy! The fretboard also sports block inlays which could either be abalone or mother of pearl. I've included a collage of these gorgeous inlays, hope you find them as droolicious as I do.
The maple neck has a nice, meaty profile, much like a slimmed-down baseball bat. It's bolted on to the body in typical 70s triple-screw fashion, complete with the "micro-neck" (micro-tilt) adjustment mechanism.
The dreaded rust/crud bond plaguing the bridge and bullet nut was eventually broken via various methods involving chemicals, heat and cold. Then came a thorough cleaning with a metal "toothbrush," and final coating of blue grease. Put them back together and they were good to go.
With the truss rod and bridge back in working condition, I was able to straighten the neck, slap on a new set of strings; and adjust the bridge saddles for optimum playability. Achoy says that this new setup suits him to a T, and I am very thankful that he appreciates my efforts. Nuff said, let's look at some pics.
Checking the serial number at Fender's U.S. Instruments Product Dating website got me a little confused. According to Fender, an "S8 + 5 digits" serial number denotes an instrument manufactured between 1977 and 1978. But what about an "S8 + 6 digits" serial number? Further research on the web revealed that I was not the only one facing this dilemma, and no one seemed to have an answer.
As a last resort, I emailed Fender Consumer Relations with a couple of pics of the bass, and was relieved to be told that "CBS typically used 5 or 6 digits after the prefix, so it's completely normal to see 6." They also confirmed the authenticity of the instrument. So, folks, the Jazz Bass dates to between 1977 and 1978.
Years of sweaty and smoky gigs had taken their toll on this bass. Both the bridge components and bullet truss rod adjustment nut were immobile, metal fused to metal by layers of hardened crud and rust. Additionally, the neck had way too much relief, and the G string was noting out at the upper reaches of the fretboard. Not good, as Achoy loves to solo way up high.
Some people might find the condition of the bass a tad off-putting, especially the gnarly back of the neck. But this is exactly what Achoy loves --- "loads and loads of mojo," says he.
The electronics were working fine, so a few squirts of contact cleaner was all that was needed. I was surprised to find that the control cavity was shielded with carbon paint, complete with a grounding tab. The condition of the tab told me that it had been in there for at least as long as the CTS pots had. The plastic output jack is another story, however. I assume it was a replacement for the original Switchcraft jack.
The 7.25" radius bound fingerboard sports 20 well-worn frets, and looks more like ebony than rosewood. Nice and smooth, I tell you. Yes, I did mention that the frets are "well worn." Does Achoy want a fret dress? No, he says, coz he likes it the way it is. When the frets eventually get totally worn down, he'll send the bass in for a full refret. That's what he says, and I'm fine with that.
Meanwhile, the body looks like it's solid ash. Talk about heavy! The fretboard also sports block inlays which could either be abalone or mother of pearl. I've included a collage of these gorgeous inlays, hope you find them as droolicious as I do.
The maple neck has a nice, meaty profile, much like a slimmed-down baseball bat. It's bolted on to the body in typical 70s triple-screw fashion, complete with the "micro-neck" (micro-tilt) adjustment mechanism.
The dreaded rust/crud bond plaguing the bridge and bullet nut was eventually broken via various methods involving chemicals, heat and cold. Then came a thorough cleaning with a metal "toothbrush," and final coating of blue grease. Put them back together and they were good to go.
With the truss rod and bridge back in working condition, I was able to straighten the neck, slap on a new set of strings; and adjust the bridge saddles for optimum playability. Achoy says that this new setup suits him to a T, and I am very thankful that he appreciates my efforts. Nuff said, let's look at some pics.
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