Unbranded 5-String Bass Rescue | Part 1

Part 2 ▶

Preamble

Folks, here's an unbranded 5-string bass that needs some help. The current owner has just acquired it on the cheap, but is sorely disappointed. As tested, the action is way too high, the controls are dodgy, and output is intermittent. Well then, let's take this bass apart and see what needs to be done.

Neck and Fretboard

We'll begin with the 3+2 configured headstock, which houses the truss rod adjustment socket. The truss rod is working, and I've been able to straighten the bolt-on maple neck. The grimy fretboard appears to be rosewood, and spans two octaves with a scale length of 34 inches, as measured. The frets themselves are badly tarnished, and could do with a good polish.

Two Octave Fretboard

3+2 Headstock

Truss Rod Cavity

Fretboard and Frets - Image A

Fretboard and Frets - Image B

Neck Heel Extension

Maple Neck

Back of Headstock

Close-Up of Maple Neck

Neck Heel Markings

Front and Back of Body

The first thing you notice on this side of the body is the elongated neck pocket, designed as such to accommodate the neck heel extension. Pickups are in a PJ configuration, while the bridge is your typical vintage-style with barrel saddles. On the back of the body are wells for the neck mounting screws and ferrules, as well as the control cavity. 

Front of Body

Elongated Neck Pocket

Pickups and Bridge

Back of Body

Neck Screw Wells

Electronics

The control cavity appears to be unshielded, and houses three mini pots for neck pickup volume, bridge pickup volume, and master tone. Judging by the gnarly wiring and messy soldering, it's quite obvious that quite a few well-meaning individuals have had a go at "modifying" the circuitry over the years. I'm not even going to try and sort out this mess. The existing pots, jack, and wiring will be trashed, and new components installed.

Unshielded Control Cavity

Neck Volume Pot

Bridge Volume Pot

Tone Pot and 0.047uF Cap

Output Jack Plate

Output Jack

Disassembled Hardware

We'll end this post with a look at the hardware that's been disassembled so far. The sealed tuners need to be cleaned and lubed, after which they should function adequately. Much the same goes for the neck mounting screws and ferrules. The smaller bridge components, on the other hand, are in really bad shape. While the barrel saddles themselves are reusable, the various rusty screws and springs need to be replaced.

Tuners, Bushings and Washers

Neck Screws and Ferrules

Saddles, Screws and Springs

Part 2 ▶