Saturday, February 08, 2014

Ibanez Artist AR305AV

Introduction
In my original post, I'd identified this beautiful guitar as an AR300, as the top looked like curly maple to these untrained eyes. However, Wojtek Kalinowski has pointed out that the top is actually Burl Mahogany, as the "wood grain is short and is facing "north" (headstock)." Therefore, this guitar is actually an AR305AV. Many thanks to Wojtek for setting the record straight.  


Specifications
Manufacturer: Terada Musical Instrument Co., Ltd. [Japan]
Date of Manufacture: April 1984
Body: Mahogany / Burl Mahogany Top [Double Cutaway]
Finish: Antique Violin [AV]
Neck: Laminated Rock Maple / Set In / Smooth Heel
Scale Length: 24.75"
Fingerboard: Ebony / Abalone-Pearloid Block Inlays
Frets: 22 / Ibanez Large
Hardware: Gold
Strap Buttons: Dead End
Machine Heads: Velve Tune [Dual Post] Tuners
Pickups: [2] Super 58 Humbuckers
Controls: [2] 500K Volume Pots / [2] 500K Tone Pots
Tone Caps: 0.022uF
Control Knobs: Sure Grip II 
Switching: [1] 3-Way Toggle / [2] Tri-Sound
Bridge: Gibraltar II
Tailpiece: Quik Change II / 'Cloud' Tailpiece Ornament

Noteworthy Features
The Ibanez 'Tri-Sound Coil Selector System' enables each humbucker to function in either humbucking, single coil, or parallel coil mode. When combined with the 3-Way Toggle Switch, this system is capable of producing "15 distinct sounds."

The 3-Way Toggle Switch, Control Cavity and Output Jack are shielded from "induced hum" by "chrome-plated metal shielding" containers. These containers also ensure the "proper grounding of all electrical components."  


References
The Guitar Dater Project - Ibanez Serial Number Decoder
Dating Ibanez Guitars
1980 Ibanez New Artist Series Catalog
1983 Ibanez Roadstar II & Artist Catalog
1983 Ibanez Electric Guitars and Acoustic Guitars Catalog
1985 Ibanez String Instruments Catalog
Ibanez Collectors World
Schematy Elektroniki Gitarowej
Repro Guitar Parts
Noah James Artist Series Page


Pics Section





Ibanez Velve Tune Dual Post Tuners

Ebony Fretboard/Abalone-Pearloid Inlays



Set In Neck/Smooth Heel/Dead End Strap Button


Super 58 Neck Humbucker

Super 58 Bridge Humbucker

Underside of Super 58 Bridge Humbucker

Gibraltar II Bridge

Quik Change II Tailpiece

Sure Grip II Knobs/Tri-Sound Switches

3-Way Toggle Switch/Metal Canister Shielding

Output Jack/Metal Canister Shielding

Control Cavity Cover

Control Cavity Metal Shielding Box

Control Cavity

Volume and Tone Pots

Tri-Sound Selector Switches






13 comments:

  1. Old Ibanez with surprises.Like the internal enclosed plate.The don't make like that now. ;).Thanks for sharing the guts.

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  2. YusTech, thanks for dropping by, and you are always welcome. This Ibanez is definitely full of surprises and shocking discoveries. I like the extra metal container shielding for the toggle switch, control cavity and output jack. However, they've been corroded badly by gases from the binding rot. The guitar sounded as it should, but I'm not sure if the wiring is stock. It looks like a previous owner did some resoldering.

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  3. I have the same model. Your wiring looks OK - I don't think that somebody messed with it. Mine has the same wiring as yours. What a quality of manufacturing in those days...

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  4. Anonymous, thanks for dropping by, your insight, and confirmation that the wiring is stock. However, on this guitar, there were obvious signs of resoldering (solder blobs, burnt insulation etc.), especially the earth wires to the pot casings, and also mini switch lugs. In any case, they don't make them like this anymore, do they? I hope you continue to enjoy many more years with your Ibanez Artist AR300AV. If you have any pics of your guitar, do share. Tqvm

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  5. Hello again, last time I posted as Anonymous. I bought mine about month ago;
    http://allegro.pl/ibanez-artist-ar300-japan-1983-rarytas-orginal-i5330036393.html
    The seller described it as "IBANEZ ARTIST AR300 JAPAN 1983 RARYTAS ORGINAL".
    Well, this is not true because in 1983 and 1984 there wasn't a model named AR300 AV.
    There was AR300 CS only;
    http://www.ibanezrules.com/catalogs/us/1983_84/roadstar2_artist/p21.jpg
    Actually, as you can see in old Ibanez catalogs from '83 and '84 there were similar models; AR300 and AR305. The difference was in material used for guitar top - AR300 CS had Flame Maple top and AR305 AV had Burl Mahogany. The 1985 was first year with AR300 AV and CS. Looking at you guitar top I see Burl Mahogany, wood grain is short and is facing "north" (headstock). Flame Maple has longer, more wisible wood grain and it is always made from two pieces glued together, with grain perpendicularly to the strings.
    In my opinion you have a beatiful Ibanez AR305 AV.
    Maybe you should change blog page title....:-)

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  6. Hi there Wojtek. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and opinions with me. I must say that you know your wood and have done extensive research on Ibanez vintage guitars. Regarding your guitar, the AR-300AV & AR-300CS are both featured in the 'Ibanez New Artist Series No.1 - 1980' catalog


    So, it could be that your Artist is indeed an AR300.

    Thanks again.

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  7. Here's the link for the 'Ibanez New Artist Series No.1 - 1980' catalog
    http://www.ibanez.co.jp/anniversary/expansion.php?cat_id=56&now=1

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  8. Hello, I saw the 1980 Ibanez catalog you mentioned but your Artist is from 1984, so I think we should use '84 model naming.
    Or '83 in my case. My post wasn't intended to diminish the value of your guitar but to set the record stright. Best Regards.

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  9. Once again, thank you for sharing your knowledge with me. It is much appreciated.

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  10. Hey hey,

    I've just purchased a very similar example, made in 1983. Maybe you could give me a tip, on how to take off the damned plate on the shielding cavity? I unscrewed the nut, but it's "stuck" (won't budge). I am hesitant to pry it open.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Sorry to hear about your predicament. You need to proceed carefully as the electronics are inside. Using heat is definitely out of the question. You might try using a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel attachment. Cut into the nut at the slowest speed possible. Stop when the cover gets hot and let it cool down before proceeding. Once you have begun cutting into the nut, it should loosen by itself, and you can unscrew it with pliers. If not, keep cutting until the nut splits. Hope this helps.

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    2. I think you may have misunderstood me (because I expressed myself wrongly maybe). I can get off the nut and only the screw is visible, but the cover isn't moving, as in the upper part of that shielding cavity. Because of that, I can't see the pots at all.

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Thank you for dropping by. All comments are highly appreciated.