My wood of choice for the fretboard extension is chengal. It's a hardwood, close grained, and dark enough to adequately match the fretboard. As seen below, a chengal blank has been glued on, and then reshaped to blend in with the contours of the neck, fretboard and headstock.
Gluing on the Chengal Blank
Fretboard Extension Reshaped
Installing the extension has created a nut slot of a suitable length and width, but not depth. As it stands, the slot is a little too deep, literally "burying" most of the bone nut. And so, strips of blackwood have been carefully glued to the bottom of the slot to raise the nut.
Test-Fitting the Bone Nut
Bridge Placement
Right, then. The fretboard extension is done. What's next? Oh, yes, fitting the bridge. There's a whole lotta measuring and marking to be done, for sure. Once the correct location of the bridge has been established, mounting holes can be drilled, and a test install carried out. Then the bridge can be uninstalled, pencil lines erased, and the body prepped for the next task, which is refinishing.
Bridge Location Finalized
Refinishing
The RCE definitely needs some refinishing, as all that sanding has removed the original finish surrounding the wooden inserts. Liquid stains aren't achieving the desired results, so I've sanded the lot off and switched to super glue. Besides darkening the bare wood considerably, the super glue also acts as a hard and sandable filler. Finally, a couple coats of Minwax Antique Oil Finish have been applied for that hand-rubbed look.
Minwax Antique Oil Finish
Refinished Body - Front View
Refinished Body - Back View
Electronics
And now, it's time to deal with the electronics. All components have been replaced and the humbuckers fitted with chrome covers, as per the owner's request. The control cavity has also been shielded with conductive shielding paint, and the back of the cover with copper foil.
Wiring Harness Completed
Shielding and Electronics Installed
Chrome Humbucker Covers
Photo Shoot
Folks, it's been almost three months since I started working on this RCE. Work has been delayed numerous times due to the unpredictable weather. For example, a rainstorm means that I'll have to stop, pack up my tools, and quickly take the instrument I'm working on indoors. This is one of the downsides of not having a proper workshop. Weather notwithstanding, we've finally reached the finish line. The pictures below were taken early this morning, and I hope you like what you see.
The Ibanez RG350DX features a middle single-coil pickup flanked by neck and bridge humbuckers; all three being ceramic. The pickups are wired to a five-way selector switch, master volume and tone pots; and a mono output jack [Fig. 1]. The underside of the pickguard is partially shielded with aluminum foil, while the pickup and control cavities are shielded with conductive shielding paint [Fig. 2].
Fig. 1: Pickguard-Mounted Electronics
Fig. 2: Shielded Pickup and Control Cavities
About the Pickups
The neck humbucker is an Infinity 3 [INF3], the middle single-coil an Infinity Single 3 [INFS3], and the bridge humbucker an Infinity 4 [INF4]. Both humbuckers feature 12 adjustable hex head pole screws in lieu of slotted threaded pole pieces, while the INFS3 has six similar pole screws. Unfortunately, the hex head pole screws of all three pickups are grimy, cruddy and corroded [Fig. 3].
Fig. 3: Corroded Hex Head Pole Screws
The INF3 features a red-jacketed coaxial cable containing white [hot] and red [series link] leads, and a braided shield [ground]. The INF4 employs a similar cable, albeit with a grey jacket. The INFS3, however, is wired into the circuit via white [hot] and black [ground] leads, both unshielded [Fig. 4].
Fig. 4: Pickup Cables/Leads
Selector Switch Malfunction
As received, there's something odd about the way the pickup selector switch functions [Fig. 5]. In Position 1 [INF3 only], only the INF3's inner coil is active, when it should be operating in full humbucker mode [both coils active]. The same thing happens when Position 5 [INF4 only] is selected. In positions 2, 3 and 4, however, the switch works as it should.
Fig. 5: Selector Switch Malfunction
The Root of the Problem
So, is the switch faulty? No, because I've checked it thoroughly and it functions normally. The root of the problem has been traced to desoldered switch tabs and the back of the volume pot. In Fig. 6 below, I've circled the areas in question for your convenience.
Fig. 6: Wiring Problems Identified
Let's examine the switch tabs now [Fig. 7]. From left to right are the three white [hot] leads for the INF4, INFS3 and INF3, the red lead carrying the switch output to the volume pot; and a black ground wire that is active in positions 2 and 4. These are where they should be, so we'll leave them alone for now. Right then, see those two numbered desoldered tabs? Tab "1" is where the series link [red lead] for the neck humbucker [INF3] needs to be connected to. Meanwhile, tab "2" is where the series link [red lead] for the bridge humbucker [INF4] should be soldered to. But, since these two series link leads are missing, where have they been soldered to instead?
Fig. 7: Desoldered Switch Tabs
Folks, here's where the "missing" series link leads are, arrowed for your convenience [Fig. 8]. Wonder of wonders, they've been soldered to the back of the volume pot! What this means is that the outer coils of both the INF3 and INF4 have been grounded permanently. Now, we know why both humbuckers can only function as single-coils.
Fig. 8: Grounded Series Link Leads
Yet another startling discovery is that the braided shields of both the INF3 and INF4 have been disconnected from the circuit, snipped short and taped off. Why anyone would want to do this is beyond me, but it is what it is. In any case, Fig. 9 below is a graphical representation of the faulty switch/volume pot wiring scheme I need to correct.
Fig. 9: Faulty Switch/Volume Pot Wiring Scheme
Normal Operation Restored
What a relief! I've managed to rewire the five-way selector to original specs [Fig. 10]. The series link leads have been resoldered to their switch tabs, and braided shields grounded to the back of the volume pot. Fig. 11 below is a graphical representation of the corrected switch/volume pot wiring scheme.
Fig. 10: Switch Rewired to Original Specs
Fig. 11: Corrected Switch/Volume Pot Wiring Scheme
Exhaustive testing of the corrected wiring scheme has revealed that in positions 1 and 5, both coils of the INF3 and INF4 are active, enabling them to operate in full humbucker mode [Fig. 12]. Last but not least, if you'd like to watch yours truly putting the rewired switch through its paces, there's a YouTube video right at the bottom of this page.
The white Ibanez RG350DX HSH S-style featured in today's post belongs to a mild-mannered schoolteacher who'd like to resurrect his alter ego; viz. a hard-rocking metalhead. And where has the RG been all this while, then? Well, it's literally been hanging on a wall collecting dust, cobwebs, and airborne corrosives. Let's begin our journey by taking a closer look at the headstock. The reddish-brown patina adorning the headstock face is the result of prolonged exposure to laterite dust, methinks.
Headstock Face
Back of Headstock
Grime, Tarnish and Corrosion
The hardware on this guitar is predominantly black, a finish that degrades much faster than chrome. To adequately address matters pertaining to hardware, I've had to completely disassemble the RG, sift through myriad components; and decide on what to retain or replace. This process has also brought to light several areas on the body that could do with some spit and polish.
Output Jack
Output Jack Plate
Grime Outlining the Jack Plate
Strap Buttons/Screws/Washers
Pickup Cavities
Neck Screws and Grommets
Badly Tarnished Tuners
Edge III Tremolo
The RG350DX comes equipped with an Edge III double-locking tremolo system. Sadly, the ravages of time and neglect have taken their toll on this piece of hardware. However, having dismantled the Edge III completely, I am confident that it will be useable after a thorough cleaning and lube job.
This white Ibanez JEM-JR has been left to rot in a corner of the original owner's home for years. It's recently changed hands, and the current owner would like to know if it can be restored to playing condition. As such, this guitar has been completely disassembled, and every component thoroughly evaluated. What's the verdict, then? Well, the good news is that the JEM-JR should be playable after an overhaul, parts replacement, fretwork, and setup. The bad news is that all this is going to cost a pretty penny. At the time of writing, I'm still waiting for the owner's go-ahead.
Headstock Face
Back of Headstock
Neck Heel Stamp
Fretboard and Frets
Let's start with the rosewood fretboard, which features 24 jumbo frets and white dot inlays. As can be seen in the pics below, the fretboard itself is infested with dirt, grime and a host of unmentionables. Meanwhile, the frets are pitted in numerous areas, and a couple have been worn completely flat.
Fretboard and Frets - Image 1
Fretboard and Frets - Image 2
Fretboard and Frets - Image 3
Hardware
Moving on to the hardware, grime and corrosion seem to be the order of the day. And in case you're wondering why I'm sharing so many close-ups, it's because I'd like you to see the adverse effects of abject neglect with your own eyes.
Edge III Tremolo Disassembled
Close-Up of Tuners
Assorted Hardware - Image 1
Assorted Hardware - Image 2
Assorted Hardware - Image 3
Pickups
This JEM-JR features an HSH pickup configuration comprising two open-coil ceramic humbuckers and an Alnico single-coil. All three pickups still work as they should, thankfully. Cleaning the dirty white covers and corroded polepieces is definitely going to take a lot of elbow grease, though.
Neck Humbucker
Middle Single-Coil
Bridge Humbucker
Underside of Pickups
Electronics
The electronics on this guitar comprise a Cor-Tek 5-way pickup selector switch, full-sized master volume and tone pots, and a barrel output jack. Unfortunately, none of these components are in working order. By the way, the white powder encrusting both pots is actually sea salt.
Electronics
Salt-Encrusted Volume and Tone Pots
The Body
With the hardware and electronics removed, one has a clear view of this JEM-JR's white body. It's wonderful to see that the pickup and control cavities are shielded with conductive shielding paint. On the other hand, the sheer amount of caked-on crud and grime is kind of hard to ignore.
